Sgurr Eilde Mor & Binnean Beag...last of the Mamores!

As one journey ends another one inevitably begins...I felt a pang of sadness leaving Glen Lochy, knowing that I had just completed the Munro's in this particular area, realising that it would be quite a while before I would be returning to this area, unless to accompany one of my friends on their Munro quest. I drove out of Glen Lochy along the A85, returning to the A82 as it snaked it's way along through Tyndrum, Bridge of Orchy and into Glencoe. I always feel the need to slow down as I approach the ski resort...Buachaille Etive Mor needs to be appreciated for as long as possible, not simply sped past. Once past the mighty Buachaille and her smaller sister the road curves around past the white cottage that used to belong to a 1970's DJ...then the magnificence of Glencoe is truly revealed! Bidean nam Bian towers above all else in the area but from the road is almost entirely hidden from view by the mighty buttresses of the three sisters. I stopped to admire the view and blended in with all the other sightseers that had stopped to take pictures in the popular layby's. And then it struck me...this is another area that I have loved walking in but have only one more Munro left to climb (Sgurr na h-Ulaidh) and I was away to head to another area that, by this time tomorrow, would see me have climbed all the Munro's in that range, the Mamores.

I pulled into Kinlochleven a little after five and headed straight for my overnight accommodation at the Forest View B&B.

My friend Paddy Rodgers runs this particular establishment, in conjunction with working alongside his ex-wife Liz who owns the Tailrace Inn in town. Paddy booked me in for the night and I headed off to shower and change, then we headed down to the Tailrace for food and drink. Liz was pleasantly surprised to see me wander in, Paddy hadn't even told her I was due down this time. Regardless of whether you are a new customer or a returning one you always get a warm welcome at the Tailrace. Even if I were not friends with Paddy I would recommend staying here to anyone that visits this tiny community. Kinlochleven was built at the end of Loch Leven and rapidly expanded in the early 1900’s based around the North British Aluminium Company who built a hydro scheme and smelter in the area. With the smelter gone the village has transformed itself into a top destination for outdoor enthusiasts. There are four Munro's accessible just behind the village itself, with many more in the surrounding area easily accessed via a short drive out of the village.

I shared supper and a beer with Paddy, until he got called away to book people into the Forest view, then settled down for a couple of beers with some guys that Paddy introduced me to that were doing the West Highland Way (WHW). One of them was on his 44th round of the WHW and appeared to have lost none of his enthusiasm for it. We sat around the table and swapped stories back and forth for a couple of hours, then I had to make my apologies and leave for bed. I had an early start in the morning and was anticipating an exceptionally long day compared to the route just done.

I awoke at six the next morning and headed off to shower and breakfast...then drove no more than 500 yards to leave my car at the start point by St Paul's church. I was out of the car and on the track by five past seven...headed up into the woods and eventually on the path to Loch Eilde.

The climb up through the woods felt rather tough on the calves, exacerbated by the uneven surface, and by the time I reached the exit path to head towards Sgurr Eilde Beag my calves were aching. The path is initially confusing on the way up through the woods, with many smaller paths intertwining across the route and suggesting that they should be followed instead...but stick to your belief that the main path is the one heading straight up and you will be fine. Once the path evens itself out at the top of this rise it is extremely easy to follow all the way out to Loch Eilde (which from a high vantage point on the slopes of Sgurr Eilde Beag later on I could see was popular with walkers and cyclists). As the path begins to lose height slightly there is an obvious cairn on the left of the path which indicates time to turn off the main path and head off to the left on a smaller path taking you towards the Mamores. You can see the slopes of Sgurr Eilde Beag ahead of you and make out the obvious path that zig-zags up the steep slopes.

Behind you the last view of Loch Leven, until the return journey, looks magnificent in the early morning haze...

Loch Eilde appears to your right as you begin the ascent of the slopes of Sgurr Eilde Beag. Recognition dawns that you are looking out across the side view of Buachaille Etive Mor...Bidean Nam Bian towering above all else, still holding the last remnants of snow in her corries...the jagged pinnacles of the Aonach Eagach Ridge, culminating in Sgorr nam Fiannaidh and the Pap of Glencoe. Soon, as you rise higher up the slopes, the Blackwater reservoir comes into view. Somewhere out there a railway track winds through the desolate Rannoch Moor and deposits Munroists at Corrour station. I remember climbing in Glen Lyon and standing atop Stuchd an Lochain realising that I was looking out across Rannoch Moor at Buachaille Etive Mor, it dawned on me then just how closely linked everything feels, how lucky we are to have all this in such close proximity.

The path continues to climb the slopes, but more in a straight line than before, reminding me of the approach path to the Saddle in Kintail. Suddenly another cairn directs you to a split in the path...continuing on ahead is the result of years of walkers heading in the wrong direction...the true route is to turn behind yourself to the left and strike off uphill again. After a few more twists in the path the outline of Sgurr Eilde Mor looms ahead...but it is only when you are truly at the top of this path that you see her in all her beauty.

 A little further along the path and the first sight of Binnean Beag away in the distance is had. A choice of which to do first must be made shortly as the path towards Sgurr Eilde Mor looms ahead. I perceived Sgurr Eilde Mor to be the tougher of the two so elected to ascend her first.

The path carries on for a short distance and then drops down beyond the larger of the lochans beneath her slopes. A traverse to the left of the lochan sees an initially faint path incline through grass, then become more apparent, then faint again as it heads through increasingly rocky ground, before turning to scree. The path climbs the left slope and increases in difficulty as height is gained. Scree gives way to loose shale before turning to scree once more and the final pull up the slopes had my calves tightening. Suddenly you find yourself on a narrow ridge just below the summit, the path winding through red rocks all the way to the cairn. Extensive views of the Mamore range (which includes the Ring of Steall), the Aonach's, the Grey Corries, the Ben (which was topped in clouds and obscured as a result) surround you as you pull onto the summit plateau at 1010m.

 Jelly McBaby climbed above the cairn and posed for pics in front of Binnean Beag, which now stood as my last remaining Mamore. I had reached the summit cairn in 2.5 hours, well ahead of a schedule that saw me prepared for at least 9 hours in the hills. I estimated that Binnean Beag was probably a 4 hour round trip from here, leaving me 2 hours to get back to the car from the bottom of Sgurr Eilde Mor on the return journey. Factor in a 15 minute stop on each summit and that would give me the 9 hours I had imagined I would require (the popular guides give you between 9-11 hours for these two Munro's on this route). Having refuelled at the summit cairn I set off back down the scree slopes to the foot of Sgurr Eilde Mor , taking great care not to slip on the loose stones as I descended. Once at the foot of the slope I elected to return to the main path via the lochan, rather than risk straining my already throbbing calf descending unmarked slopes. As I reached close to the bottom of the slope I noticed a walker coming down the unmarked grass slope to my right, appearing to come from Sgurr Eilde Mor. This struck me as strange in the fact that when on the summit I could see no-one for miles and did not pass anyone either going up or coming down. He may well have come across the Munro from the other side, starting at a different location from me, I would soon find out as our paths were about to cross down at the stream at the bottom of the slope.

We exchanged pleasantries and he informed me that he had left Kinlochleven this morning at eight o'clock and followed the self same path as I had been on. Now, whilst I have no reason to doubt that Kinlochleven car park to Sgurr Eilde Mor could be done in 1.5 hours, I have no reason to believe that it was on this occasion. The path is very visible from the moment you rise out of Kinlochleven to turning around the slope of Sgurr Eilde Beag...and I saw no sign of anyone following in my wake in the two hours that it took me to do it...far less someone moving as fast as he was claiming to have managed it. Furthermore, I saw no sign of anyone traversing the far slope of Sgurr Eilde Mor when I was stood on the summit taking pics of Loch Eilde. He also made no significant ground on me on the way up to Binnean Beag, indeed he appeared to move quite slowly on the ascent!! The walk between Sgurr Eilde Mor and Binnean Beag took an hour and three quarters, he was lucky if he was ten minutes in front of me throughout that.

The traverse of the slopes of Binnean Beag was far less steep with certainly less scree than Sgurr Eilde Mor. The path takes a zig-zag route as you would expect, cutting through the various rocks and scree. I toiled slightly at the final push, just as the summit takes a final steepness, but pulled up onto the summit cairn 943m at quarter past eleven. Jelly McBaby enjoyed the suns rays as we sat on the top eating sandwiches and drinking lucozade.

Binnean Mor provided the perfect backdrop to our location, the only thing missing was a clear view of the Ben. We sat awhile soaking in the views, then left at eleven thirty. We returned via the same outward path, downhill to the stream then ascending steep zig-zags, until we pulled onto the bealach between Sgurr Eilde Mor and Sgurr Eilde Beag. The outward journey from here had taken an hour and three quarters...the return had taken an hour!! It had taken me two hours to reach this very spot from kinlochleven, even if it took the same in return then I would be beating the time I had set aside for this comfortably. As it was a simple case of returning downhill on the same path I set off with my head down and didn't stop until I reached the car again...it still took me an hour and a half to do that (thirty minutes longer than the young man claimed it took him to ascend the same route this morning...my disbelief of his story was complete!!!). I arrived back at the car at two o'clock...seven hours after departure...knackered but delighted. After a quick change of clothes I returned to the Tailrace Inn to let Paddy know I was down safely, rehydrate with a quick pint of orange and lemonade, then set off on the long drive back to Aberdeen once more.

It may well be another three weeks before I get back out on the hills again, work is continuing to get in the way of my plans, and I have a hankering for a big round (Mullardoch/Strathfarrar/Alder) to whet my appetite on my next two day opportunity. Until then folks, stay safe and keep doing what brings you happiness...

 

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Just to say that this is yet another area that I have finished the Munro's in, but unlike some of the others, I will return here more frequently as Kinlochleven now holds a special place in my heart...especially the Tailrace Inn.

 

 

 

 

 

Ben Lui redemption...

Approximately 19 months ago, to the very day, I was part of a CMB expedition to these parts that ultimately ended in failure. Having climbed (and almost drowned on) Ben Oss and Beinn Dubhcraig from Dalrigh we had attempted Ben Lui and Beinn a' Chleibh the following day from Glen Lochy. The river Lochy was in full spate and we had been unable to cross safely, deciding instead to venture 1.5k down stream to a bridge, then risking the railway tracks back to the start point, after which we then couldn't cross the Eas Daimh as it was thundering downstream like a raging torrent!! On that fateful occasion I had Angus Macleod, Mike Charlton, Paddy Rodgers and Spot (big Andy) for company...this time I was alone. All the way down from Aberdeen I had been fretting about being unable to cross the Lochy again, or finding the Eas Daimh in full flow...or being caught crossing the railway tracks and getting a £2000 fine for my troubles!! Thankfully upon arrival my fears were alleviated by the glorious conditions and I was able to negotiate both water hazards without even getting the soles of my boots wet.

Firstly I crossed the Lochy, which although wide, was shallow and provided visible stepping stones. I then crossed the railway tracks (do they seriously believe that anyone is going to squeeze under the bridge that the Eas Daimh flows out through!!!) and narrowly missed the 1045 to Oban thundering past...

I then headed up the boggy path into the forest and continued to follow the flow of the Eas Daimh, at least until I was halted by the sight of a tree down across the path. I was left with the option of wasting time searching beyond the reach of the stricken tree for a route around, or crawling beneath the prone branches to the path on the far side...I elected to crawl. Once safely, and surprisingly cleanly, through to the other side I continued on the boggy path, crossed the Eas Daimh and continued to follow the path up Fionn Choire as it flirted with the line of trees, then merged into the woods, emerging higher up even boggier than before. There were footprints through the bogs of walkers that had clearly decided their boots were expendable and cared not one jot for the care and attention that needs to be lavished on high vis boots to maintain their brightness and lifespan. If anyone reading these blogs over the past two years has not realised by now...I am something of an OCD sufferer and cannot abide getting messy for no good reason. If I do require to get down and dirty then I immediately set about rectifying this when I get home and ensure that my gear is always in the most pristine condition for the next time I require it.

Anyway, I digress slightly, the path was boggy enough at the best of times, without choosing to simply plod on through the worst bits of it with a gay abandon.

After what felt like an interminable plod through mud I arrived through the trees at the deer fence that slices across the lower reaches of the corrie and cordons off the trees from those voracious raptor like creatures that devour everything in their path. When you see the damage that deer do to the highlands it is hard to feel any sympathy for them when discussing culls...plus I am quite partial to the occasional venison burger!

After negotiating the deer gate...once opened I could not manage to lock it again and had to secure it in place with a piece of broken wire I found lying around...I headed up hill and away from the fence. The view ahead was masked from view by a thin layer of mist cloaking both tops of Lui and Chleibh. The path now meandered vary faintly towards the flanks of Ben Lui, or towards the Bealach between the two Munro's. I elected to leave the bealach path for the return journey and headed firstly towards Ben Lui. The path disappears in the grass and fades away to nothing, unless a keen eye is kept on it. Unfortunately my keen eye is usually found wandering everywhere but the path as views come into focus all around me and I concentrate instead on clicking away with my camera. With the view in front of me obscured by mist I looked behind me instead as the brooding behemoth of Ben Cruachan loomed into view above the village of Dalmally. Ben Cruachan holds a very special place in my heart as it was my very first meeting with Jelly McBaby (15th May 2010 on my 55th Munro) and he has been with me almost every step of the way since (only being kept apart by inclement weather and holidaying separately). It was also one of the last Munro's I climbed with my friend Asima, who fell out of love with hillwalking around that time and has only recently returned to action. I realised that feeling nostalgic had given me a warm glow inside...which was a relief as I initially thought it was my guts playing up...you just don't need dodgy guts on a long day up the hills. 

Thankfully for myself and you, my long suffering reader, this was not a long day in the hills after all. Despite suffering from a pulled calf muscle last week (the very same one that I tore last year that kept me out of action for almost four weeks) I still managed to burst these Munro's in 4.5 hours. The slog up the grassy slopes towards Ben Lui was hard going, but not as bad as I had feared when I set off this morning (I had fears about my calf giving up on me and forcing me to abandon). The mist started to clear as I approached the summit ridge, the views across to Beinn a' Chleibh were improving dramatically.

The underfoot conditions were changing from grass to rock and a path appeared from nowhere to lead me up the ridge and onto the summit. As I pulled up onto the summit ridge I spotted three other walkers approaching from Stob Garbh above the magnificent winter climb of Central Gully. With the north-west summit now in sight I could hear other voices in front of me. I pulled on to the summit plateau and saw a group of other walkers just departing the south-east summit towards Beinn a' Chleibh. From either summit there are magnificent views down the Cononish glen to Dalrigh. Unfortunately the cloud base decided to drop as I reached the summit and the more extensive views I had been hoping for of Crianlarich, Dalmally, Loch Awe, Tyndrum, Glen Orchy all disappeared from sight. Nevertheless I still managed to persuade Jelly McBaby to pose on the summit cairn 1130m.

I could see a large group of walkers ahead of me now, snaking their way down to the bealach, at least eight strong. As I headed down the path behind them the other three I had seen earlier pulled onto the summit ridge behind me. I had not seen as many people on a single Munro in one day all year long (by the end of the walk I would have counted 22 other walkers, more than any single day since I had been on Ben Nevis 2 years ago). I quickly caught the first group of three as I meandered down the slope to the bealach and got chatting with them. Apparently they were a group of 11 ramblers that meet up each year for a week and try to do as many Munro's in a certain area, this year being Crianlarich, as they can manage. They had come from as far afield as Canada and Australia just to sample the delights of the Scottish Highlands in summer. I was enjoying the company for a change and stopped to chat to each of them in turn as we made our way to the summit of Beinn a' Chleibh 916m. Once at the cairn I offered to take a group shot of them all, which they happily posed for. They headed off in the opposite direction to me as they had to meet their lift down on the A85 by Dalmally. Jelly McBaby can sometimes by quite a shy character and on this occasion he elected to wait until the crowds had died away before standing proud on the summit cairn.

As I headed down from the summit, returning once more to the bealach, I passed some more groups of walkers. You get so used to being out on your own in the hills, often going many trips between meeting other people, that it feels strange to see so many out in one day. It is fabulous that so many people are managing to get out into our glorious countryside and experience the delights of Munroing. The return journey follows the path down onto the bealach and then down into Coire Fionn and along the grassy declines back to the deer fence, negotiating once more the boggy path all the way back to the river Lochy, then finally the car. As I was getting changed out of sweaty gear at the car I was approached by an elderly gentleman from a nearby camper van, enquiring about my day in the hills. He then proceeded to tell me about his own, youthful, experiences of Munro bagging many years ago. The old fella seemed pleased to have someone willing to spend half an hour with him listening to his tales...and I was happy to be that person (I may well be him one day). I offered to share my flapjack with him as we chatted about various peaks we had traversed around Scotland almost forty years apart and the advances in wet weather protection in that time. As we chatted we were approached by an elderly woman who started to chastise the old fella for taking up too much of my time, then apologised (needlessly) for her husband boring me with his tales. I explained that I hoped I was still sounding as enthusiastic about my treks when I am his age. I left him being dragged back to the camper van and started to think about my journey to Kinlochleven and the chance to complete the Mamore range tomorrow...after a relaxing night in the Tailrace Inn with some mad West Highland Way walkers I had yet to meet... 

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Beinn Alligin...the best views EVER from a hill.

Following on from yesterday's rather enjoyable day in the hills, with another new pair of summits bagged, I enjoyed a peaceful sleep secure in my decision to change my original plans and tackle Beinn Alligin today...then I woke up to a thick mist covering the hills around me! Fortunately I could feel the heat of the sun threatening to burn through so returned to bed for an hour confident that this would allow ample time for the mist to clear and blue skies to prevail.

I left Ledgowan Lodge at around ten o'clock and drove the short distance to Torridon, arriving at the car park 3k west of the village at Abhain Coire Mhic Nobuil in sweltering heat and only high wispy white clouds.

From the car park there is a choice of start and end points...east of the bridge is a large path that takes you across the Horns before the Munro's...west path takes you to the Munro summits first and then the Horns. I had already been advised that the best route to take was west to east, as that keeps the Horns and ridge in your view far longer. I set off at my usual brisk pace, trying to shake any stiffness from yesterday out of my limbs, leaving a couple in the car park well behind. The path is very well constructed and easy to follow. The first thing you notice about this walk is the view back to Upper Loch Torridon across to Coulin Munro's, then the side on view you get of Liathach to the east, then the fact that everything around you is in such vivid colour and that mountains seem to be rising from every angle...then before you know it you are at the deer fence.

The second thing you notice on this walk up is that you are gaining height continually, from the moment you leave the car park at 61m to the moment you top out on the high bealach at around 870m there is only one short flat section to ease the ache of a strenuous climb of 800m...and because of the increasingly amazing views all around you it's not even as though you have time to notice if your legs hurt or not. I continued up the rising path into the awaiting maw of Coir nan Laogh. Steep walls of Torridonian sandstone rise up sharply either side of you as you enter the corrie, the path hangs to the right of the corrie, to the left of the stream...thankfully as the left of the corrie appeared almost ragged beyond belief. And still the views kept coming...

Little could I imagine that the best was yet to come...after all what could be better than the views I have had from the majority of my Munro climbs already this year?? The answer lay another 50m above me at the top of the bealach. I pushed on through the corrie, stopping only to drain my bottle of lucozade and refill it at the stream coursing downhill...then drinking the full 500ml and filling her back up again...at least I would be nothing less than hydrated today. The fantastic views of the Horns of Alligin had disappeared when I entered the corrie, the thought of how good they would look from the top pushed me on through the tough climb. I was anticipating something special as I neared the top of the bealach, especially as I could see the summit trig point high above me, almost taunting me to hurry up and reach her.

Unfortunately the clouds had arrived and swallowed up the sun, making me reach into my rucksack for an extra layer when I arrived at the summit, only for her to burst through and bathe the land in her radiance by the time McBaby climbed upon the summit cairn of Tom na Gruagaich 922m.

 

This is the lower Munro of Beinn Alligin and was only promoted from spot height to Munro in 1997, but can in no way be considered inferior to Sgurr Mhor. The views from here outstripped even my wildest dreams and aspirations of the area.

If anyone is ever in any doubt as to the beauty of our fair land then I implore you to get out of the city, leave the crowds and pollution behind, pull on a sturdy pair of footwear and traverse up a clear path to this fantastic viewpoint and wonder in awe at the creation that lies beneath you...Whether or not you choose to take a step further on the ridge, I challenge anyone not to be mightily impressed at the vista that greets you at the trig point.

OMG!!! I could see for miles around...the entire north-west highlands and beyond had opened up to me in one magnificent panoramic delight. Liathach and Beinn Eighe stand like giants, jealously guarding the jewel of Glen Torridon and the views that lie beyond...Beinn Liath Mhor, Sgorr Ruadh, Maol Chean-dearg steeple the far side of the Glen but pale in significance in sight of these monoliths. Far out to Strathconnon, Strathfarrer, Mullardoch, Affric, Kintail...the Cuillin of Skye...all magnificent in their own right but surely none possess views as wonderous as this!! Look ahead to Sgurr Mhor and the snaking line of the path along the ridge, beyond lies An Teallach (rightly renowned as the jewel of them all) the Fisherfield six (now sadly five) Beinn Dearg and the Inverlael and Braemore Munro ranges...I swear I drooled a little!!

Then when you think you have seen all you are going to see from here a cloud inversion (a colder band of air trapped beneath a warmer layer) rolls in across the inner sound (the fourth pic down above).

And then I see my first people since leaving the car park, a distant figure on the summit of Sgurr Mhor, followed shortly after by another one, both appearing to have traversed the route in reverse meaning I should pass them between Munro's. I dropped down to the bealach on a rather rocky path that would prove hazardous in misty conditions, but was obvious to pick out in these clear skies. I passed both the other walkers I had seen coming towards me earlier, stopping to speak to an elderly gentleman, just before the climb back up to the minor peak in between Tom na Graugaich and Sgurr Mhor. He informed me that there were three other walkers ahead of me, at the summit and getting ready to head for the Horns. We wished each other well for the remainder of our day and headed off in opposite directions. I didn't get a chance to speak to the other walker heading towards me, he turned off the path and trudged down through grass to bypass the minor peak...perhaps he caught a whiff of me on the breeze in my second day old walking gear (anything to save on washing too much gear when I get home)!! I walked on to my next target of the day...Eag Dubh (the black cleft)!!

I stood on the edge of the right hand face above and wished that I had someone with me to take dramatic shots like that...but until Jelly McBaby learns how to use my Xperia Z then I guess that's something I have to live with as a lone walker. From here the pull to the summit cairn of Sgurr Mhor is not far and flattens out somewhat to reveal a sizable cairn to the left of the cliffs 986m. The view from here was possibly even better than on Tom na Gruagaich, specifically the view across Loch a Bhealaich to Baosbheinn.

We sat here a while and wondered if we had had a better day on a hill before...then conceded that perhaps not. All eyes then turned to the traverse of Na Rathanan (the Horns of Alligin), three rocky prominences that lie between the walker and home. Having no head for heights, and mindful of my collapse in Tenerife only two weeks earlier, I admit to having doubts about going out on them alone (a slip on wet rock or grass could prove fatal, a recurrence of my Tenerife blackout whilst on a pinnacle would undoubtedly prove fatal) but the pull was too strong to resist. You only get one chance to live, it's not a rehearsal for something else, so risks must be taken and consequences cast aside at times...this felt like one of those times.

I could see the three other walkers ahead of me now for the first time, heading up the first Horn as I was heading down from the summit cairn. There is a faint path around the Horns, on grass, but is actually considered more dangerous than a traverse over the Horns (possibly due to the steepness of the drop and it being grass) so the only logical decision was to go across the top...simples!

What I failed to admit to myself at the time was that I hadn't eaten anything since breakfast and felt a little light headed, I actually dismissed this and put it down to my reticence of heights. Thankfully I stopped on the top of the first Horn and consumed an oat bar before negotiating the second Horn. The scramble up the first Horn was rather airy and the drop down the other side was surprisingly easy. The second Horn proved airy on the way up and more difficult to negotiate a way down from...I found myself over to the right and balanced precariously on a boulder above a sheer drop whilst trying to reach the next boulder down...a grab on a rock above my head and a swing out and lunge forward saw me land safely on the large boulder at the side of me. When I stopped shaking I could see the three guys ahead of me had stopped and were watching me from the third Horn. They later told me that they had found an easier drop down further to the left, which had initially looked too tough, but were glad they hadn't gone the same way as me. The third Horn was far easier to negotiate and before I knew it I was heading down a clear path that would lead me back to two bridge crossings over rivers and eventually the car park. 

Once back at the car I made my mind up to head home, after a brief stop for a shower at Ledgowan Lodge, rather than stay another night and push myself too hard on a third day. Everyone has limitations, I found mine earlier than usual on this particular trip, but with a build up of fitness I will be back to my peak in a couple of weeks (hopefully with no further episodes of blacking out).

 

Beinn Alligin is perhaps my new favourite hill...although that may have had a lot to do with the views as An Teallach and Creag Meaghaidh were done in mist and I still have Liathach and the Saddle and much of the Cuillin to do.

 

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My twin peaks success...

Having been out for three weeks in a row in April, I then didn't get out at all in May. Partly this was due to work commitments, but also to the small matter of spending ten days in Tenerife soaking up the sun (more on that later). Upon my return to these shores I made it a priority to arrange a trip into the hills, but to where...and when??? I knew that I had further commitments at the weekend just gone in Carnoustie (not quite as exotic as Tenerife but just as much fun), and this coming weekend with my Son (getting to meet his new girlfriend, I better play nice), which narrowed me down to a five day window.

I toyed with the idea of two big days at Mullardoch and Strathfarrer, which would have bagged me eight new Munro's, but following Tenerife I had doubts about my fitness, and ability to cope alone if anything went wrong.

I think I should explain now, before continuing with the story, about Tenerife; I collapsed on my first day there due to a slow heart beat, which caused my blood pressure to crash and me to faint in the street. I spent the first three days of my holiday in hospital getting tests to tell me, eventually, that no-one knew why it had happened, or if it would happen again. Clearly the not knowing if it will re-occur at any point is a concern for the lone hill walker, especially on some remote trek, or narrow ridge. Couple in the fact that it has been five weeks since I set foot on a hill and almost three weeks since I attended the gym and you begin to understand my apprehension at tackling a big day straight away (I was also getting grief off the select few people that knew about Tenerife for wanting to go away on my own).

Having ruled out Mullardoch and Strathfarrer as destinations this time I returned yet again to Achnasheen as my base, staying at the Ledgowan Lodge bunkhouse, and planned three days of walking. I left Aberdeen early on the morning of Tuesday 4th June and drove the almost 150 miles to Achnashellach to tackle Sgurr Choinnich and Sgurr a'Chaorachain from the forestry car park at Craig.

I set off from the car in bright sunshine, though cloudy skies, at around quarter to eleven, crossing the main road and heading towards the railway track.

  

Once safely across the tracks (look both ways remember) the path turns to the left and basically takes you to a crossing point of the Allt a'Chonais. Following this path I crossed a bridge over the river Connon, ignored three right turns, went through a deer fence, turned right at a knoll and after an hour or so of walking ended up at the Allt a'Chonais. From the point of passing the knoll I could see my twin targets ahead of me all the way, which gave me plenty of scope for attempting to work out the best route up and down them.

On the way along the path I passed beneath the flanks of Sgurr nan Ceannaichean to my left. This had a brief flirtation (in the grand scheme of things) as a Munro from 1981 till 2009. Given that the difference has been measured at only 3ft short I will bag her when I do Moruisg in the off chance that she gets another future measurement that promotes her again. This is also true of Beinn a'Chlaidheimh in Fisherfield.

On my right was the Corbett of Sgurr na Feartaig, which I could easily have included in this route as I ended up beneath her flanks at the Bealach Bhearnais later on anyway. As I was unaware of this at the time I kept to the path and ignored the turn off for Feartaig and carried on out along between and beneath these Corbetts.

I detoured off the path when I knew the Allt a'Chonais was to be crossed, signified by the path heading up from the far bank! Prior to this point there had been three other possible crossings of the stream...one on the dodgiest looking wire bridge that I had ever seen until the next one...one bridge that led onto Sgurr na Feartaig...and one bridge that no longer exists across the gorge!!

My eventual crossing of Allt a'Chonais was on stepping stones (not possible in spate) next to an even dodgier looking wire bridge than the first one!

The path, once safely across the stream, meanders up hill around the lower flanks of Sgurr na Feartaig to head for the Bealach Bhearnais. This Bealach sits beneath Sgurr na Feartaig, Sgurr Choinnich and Beinn Tharsuinn (another Corbett) and appears to be a popular place to camp out. I spotted two tents pitched far enough apart to suggest two separate parties on the Bealach (meeting one of the occupants further on up the slopes of Sgurr a'Chaorachain who confirmed this). Once at this Bealach there is a short rise to another Bealach beneath Sgurr Choinnich, with a handily placed drystone dyke to stop for a spot of lunch.

It had taken me just short of three hours to get to this point, I had been so engrossed in the walk that I hadn't even realised I should have been hungry before now. After a short fuel stop I carried on up the steepening flanks of Sgurr Choinninch, which narrowed quite nicely to provide a ridge to traverse above the steep corrie walls to my left. There was even a small cornice of snow left in the corrie for me to snap a shot of prior to topping out on the summit cairn. Sgurr Choinnich summit cairn stands at 999m high and has a ridge leading off east towards Sgurr a'Chaorachain and a shoulder leading off south to Sgurr na Conbhair (a spot height).

There were amazing views from the summit cairn, perched just above the void of Pollan Buidhe, which took in the Mullardoch Munro's (getting a battering from the elements) Lurg Mhor and Bidean a' Choire Sheasgaich (which I thought about doing the following day) the Strathfarrer Munro's (at the end of Loch Monar) the Coulin Munro's of Beinn Liath Mhor, Sgorr Ruadh, Maol Chean-dearg and the gloriously appealing Torridonian monoliths of Liathach, Beinn Eighe and Beinn Alligin.

The weather took a slight dip whilst I was at the cairn and a chill coursed through me, forcing me to pull a long sleeved top on. As I headed off the summit towards the Bealach Coire Choinnich it started to rain. Thankfully the thundery showers that were forecast never materialised above me, instead staying over Mullardoch and Strathfarrer, so the drizzle was just enough to cool me down and wash the midgies off my forehead. I stopped briefly halfway up the slopes of Sgurr a'Chaorachain for a chat with one of the tent owners about plans for the coming days...he was toying with the idea of Lurg Mhor and Bidean a' Choire Sheasgaich also for tomorrow, going across Beinn Tharsuinn. I told him that my route left from Attadale and he suggested that it would not take as long as the recommended 16 hours, but not much less. I think I made up my mind there and then to bin that idea and head to Alligin instead.

I carried on up to the summit cairn of Sgurr a'Chaorachain at 1053m and Jelly McBaby joined me briefly until the rain forced him to seek shelter.

I toyed seriously with the idea of also bagging Maoile Lunndaidh today, but the reality of the situation was it would add at least another 10k onto my day and extend it by anything up to another three to four hours. I was unwilling to push myself too hard after making promises to stay within my comfort zone on this trip. I would content myself with two Munro's today and feel pleased at being able to bag them in under the recommended seven hours. From the summit cairn I headed north along a grassy ridge then turned left down steepening grassy slopes all the way (carefully) to the glen basin before crossing the Allt a'Chonais once more and returning along the path back to Craig and my car. There left only the short drive back to Ledgowan Lodge for an overnight stay in the bunkhouse, far preferable to my usual lengthy drive home. Tomorrow would bring challenges I may

 

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