Following a hastily conceived idea to go back to Glen Etive this weekend, between Chris and myself, we booked accommodation at tyndrum lodge hotel and included Mark (Barnett) and Jock (McLachlan) in the team. Jock was joining us for the first time, indeed he had not been out in the hills for almost 15 yrs, according to local legend, but felt that his overall level of fitness would see him through.
Mark agreed to drive and pick Jock up on route in Peterhead and myself in Aberdeen. The route was plotted, the course mapped, full steam ahead should see us arrive at our destination at approximately 20:00, or thereabouts.
The journey down was full of nervous excitement about the challenge that lay ahead of us the next day (we had planned to finish off the Etive circuit by taking in Glas Beinn Mhor, Stob Coir an Albannach and Meall nan Eun), and wondering if Mark and/or Jock would be fit enough at this stage to manage (??).
Jock kept us amused on the way down with tales from decades past about derring do on the slopes of Scotland, wearing the type of gear that can only be found in natural history museums.....(more of that later)
Although he never actually uttered the immortal phrase "are we there yet" Jock did ask on a number of occasions "how much further"....which had to be explained to him each time we passed a sign with the mileage on it, that he had to add on another 5 miles beyond Crianlarich.....
Arrival at tyndrum was only 30 mins later than intended, not bad going really for us. We checked in and assigned the rooms, Jock and Chris in together, me stuck with the snoriest man in the world!!! A quick pint was consumed and decisions made about where to eat. They actually had a nice spread on at the hotel, a curry buffet for 12 quid, but it had already been half decided that we would hit the good food cafe for the best chips this side of Bridge of Orchy....
After mucho chip consumption...I didn't realise so many chips could be crammed into so few individuals until that night...we returned to Paddy's bar for a few aperitifs prior to retiring for the night. Unfortunately for us someone decided to put Dean Martin on the jukebox and that was all she wrote...."when the moon hits your eye like a big pizza pie that's Amore...that's Amore"...ah the fun we had as Jock and Mark decided to provide some impromptu entertainment for the troops....cheers guys.
I would love to say at this point that we all retired sleepily for the night around midnight, but I don't do lies. Suffice to say there will be no repeat on future trips...it would also have been nice to say that Mark didn't keep me awake at all with his snoring...oh you get it by now.
We awoke early and were at the breakfast table by half seven the next morning, all showered and keen to get going (well almost all of us) and consumed our body weight in grilled goods before packing up and hitting the road.
We arrived at our destination and could see that it would be a frustrating day ahead weather wise, rain was evident in the skies above us and the boggy ground confirmed that it had been like this for a few days at least.
We agreed that the best route to take was following the Alt nam Mearleach (our return route the previous fortnight) to the bealach between Stob Coire Dheirg and Meall nan Tri Tighearnan. This would give us more of a gradual climb than the alternative route around Glenceitlein.
It became apparent rather early in the traverse that Jock was perhaps feeling a tad under prepared for the strenuous nature of the walk...he genuinely found it harder going than he had envisaged before setting off...but he doggedly stuck to task and pulled himself along as best he could...hardy old sod!!
The route was initially boggy on the lower slopes, drying out into a stony path further up, but was hardly recognisable from two weeks ago, when it was traversed in the opposite direction...possibly not aided by the thick mist that was following us up the hill and eventually engulfed us before we made it to the bealach.
Chris and Mark were waiting for us on the bealach, sipping on hot drinks and munching rock cakes, when we eventually made it. I don't think Jock has ever been so pleased to stop for a tea break in his life.
We now knew we only had a few hundred metres left to climb for the summit of Meall nan Tri Tighearnan...then the slight descent and ascent onto Glas Beinn Mhor. A quick check of the map to let Jock know how much further we had to go then off we set...admittedly at this point I may have burst into life and bounded up to Tighearnan rather quicker than I realised..only stopping to look back for the others when I could neither see nor hear them below. I waited in the mist for them to arrive, then set off again, the bit between my teeth, for the summit cairn. Not an altogether unpleasant climb, a few false summits caused by the thick mist, and a clear cairn on the summit.
Jelly McBaby appeared for the customary photo shot, then was joined by Chris...then Mark and eventually Jock.
A quick bite to eat then a discussion on the route required to head for Stob Coire an Albannach.
Once we had our bearings sorted out we set off towards our next target, onwards and downwards again, through a tricky descent for those less able, but thankfully there was only the one slight stumble heading down.
The mist cleared as we descended, giving us great views of the climb ahead of us...something which may account for the next discussion and eventual decision made. Given the time that it had taken us to get this far we realised that we were not going to achieve our initial goal for the day.
A decision had to be made that suited the team, not individuals, and had to be based on the speed of the slowest not the fastest. Whilst i agreed with the decision being made to return down the bealach we currently found ourselves on, I was still upset about it. But as it was in the best interests of the team it was the correct decision.
So off we toddled down past the robbers waterfall, taking in the views back to Glas Beinn Mhor and praying, without success, that the mist would clear off Ben Starav for a photo opportunity.
The rest of the descent was made in a strangely silent manner, perhaps we were all taking stock of our priorities for future trips, or evaluating our capabilities on this one...either way we were pretty spread out on the return journey...alone with our thoughts.
There was one last photo opportunity back at the car before we left, Baino took up the driving duties on the way back, and off we set into the civilised world once more.....
Aww doesn't he look so sweet and innocent when his eyes are closed?? No?? Thought not!!!
Till next time.....enjoy your adventures folks.
It was a bright clear morning as I dragged myself out of bed at 0415, wiped the sleep from my eyes, thought about why I was awake and up at such an ungodly time of day (after only a few hrs sleep), then remembered Baino was coming to pick me up at 0500. Fighting the temptation to return to the warmth of my bed I quietly showered dressed and remembered to take my packed lunch out of the fridge before heading out to await Baino's arrival....if he was late I would happily return to bed!!
I need not have worried, he was on time and looking even sleepier than me, but with the glint of a man on a mission about him.
We headed off into the warming morning air, hoping that it would follow us down to our destination, and set the course required for Glen Etive.
The weather changed frequently as we drove down the quiet roads (who else would be mad enough to be up at this time) towards Perth then Crianlarich....a short stop at Tyndrum for some breakfast then on to our target. The Buachaille reared high above us as we turned off the A82 down the slip road to access Glen Etive. A suitable spot was chosen to park up and we surveyed the meandering path leading up the broad shoulder of Ben Starav, through drizzle at this time.
We set off at about 0945 down towards Coilletar house, picking our way through some soggy marshy underfoot conditions, out towards the access bridge across the Alt Mheuran, then followed the winding boggy route up along the river as it thundered through the various narrowing chasms in the rock.
We turned left as the path forked off towards Alt nam Meirleach, instead following the height towards Coire da Choimhid, undertaking a gruelling climb with few stops and fewer level areas to break the relentless ascent.
Onwards and continuing upwards through Coire an Fhir Leith, the views back into Glen Etive quite spectacular already, pushed on by a mix of rain wind and hail at our backs, but with outbreaks of sunny spells throughout we struggled on.
A short break was taken at the foot of Starav's main ridge climb, waterproof trousers were finally adorned, gloves were looked out (but never worn) and pics were taken of tired souls drinking in the beauty all around.....
The main ridge climbs steeply through large boulders, not easy in the wet, and peaks out at 1078m, meaning that we had ascended 1060m in height from the car....perhaps I should have told Baino that little fact prior to departure!!
About 5 mins from the summit cairn the weather decided to really close around us and engulfed us in thick mist and heavier rain, turning to snow as we summitted. None of this was enough to dampen the joy of Baino reaching his milestone.....50 not out....a great feat by any stretch of the imagination. It is suggested that the list of people to have climbed as many mountains in this country is still below 10,000.....which out of a population of over 5m in Scotland alone still makes us a minority group....a group I am proud to be a part of.
We stopped briefly at the summit for the obligatory pose then headed round the ridge to find some shelter where we could take lunch. We managed to pick our way through the rocks strewn around the summit path and round to the second peak on Starav...Stob Coire Dheirg...before a steep descent towards the bealach, where we stopped about halfway down for lunch.
I would like to thank Meghan at this point for the lovely rock cakes she supplied for the occasion, hard outer shell, soft on the inside, brilliant. We prayed to whatever deity we believed in for a break in the weather and got it....from the misty/snowy/hail covered top we had on Starav suddenly lifted and our trail became clear all around us.....beautiful views all around to the hills of Cruachan, Glencoe, Ballachuilish, Dalrigh....big country indeed.
We could see the path leading to the summit of Beinn nan Aighenan from the bealach at Glas Bheinn Chaol and decided that was the best route to take. It was going to be at least an hour out there, then another hour back to the bealach, so we had better push on. The path widened safely as we headed down...stopping briefly to wonder at the craggy magnificance of Starav's huge corrie walls, shards of razor rock reaching to the heavens, cut through its heart by a line of white quartzite which we were both fascinated by.
The path out to Beinn nan Aigenan was pretty straight forward, although in misty conditions the path would have appeared non existant as it disappeared a number of times through the rocks. When we arrived at the foot of the climb we decided to leave our rucksacks at the bottom, sensible when you think we had to pass back this way on the return, so we set off with some fluids and (after running back down to get him) Jelly McBaby.
The climb was long and steep and not helped by the wind that appeared intent on blowing us off our feet at times.
Thankfully the summit cairn is located on the edge of the climb at 957m and is a welcome sight. A few pics of Jelly McBaby and we decided to move on, just in case the weather we could see all over Cruachan turned towards us.
Baino decided at this point that he was not going to manage to continue onto Glas Bheinn Mhor, instead opting to return to the car via the Alt nam Meirleach....I sometimes need reminded that there is a difference between being fit and being hill fit....This has been my 19th new summit this year already, not everyone has that much good fortune. One thing about munro's....they have been there for a hell of a lot longer than any one of us and will remain for long after we have departed. Setting targets is all well and good, but knowing when you wont reach them and returning safe and well to try again is paramount.
It took us a couple of hours to traverse down the Alt nam Meirleach and reach the car, a lot of it through boggy ground, some pathless, and it is easier to slip and stumble when your legs are tired, more prone to accidents is not good at height. A walk of such magnitude should not really be attempted after an early start and long drive....no wonder fatigue kicked in.
But we made it safely back to the car and headed back along Glen Etive to the Kings House Hotel. The best thing to say about the Kings House is that you will be tired after a punishing day and appreciate the cuisine on offer. The lounge was full of walkers/cyclists/climbers and unfortunately a few arseholes!! In particular were the two at the end of the bar that decided to steal beer everytime the barman turned his back, leaning across to fill their glass from the unattended pump...until we spoiled their plan. Then the hugely pretentious bloke from Edinburgh that managed to annoy us within minutes of opening his mouth, engaging in conversations about walking that just didnt ring true, a weather chaser my arse!!! But even they could not spoil what was a fantastic day trip for us.....they only reaffirmed that first impressions can be so importantly accurate.
We skipped breakfast the following day and headed instead to the green welly stop at Tyndrum for a fry up of gargantuan proportion....then Baino picked up some brownie points by heading back in time for Meghan's school sports day....some things are more important than Munro bagging.
I thank the stars for having a few trusted and brilliant friends to share such moments with, and think of those not able to join us each and everytime we do it, knowing that their time will come.
Until the next time......
And so it came to pass that on the 31st day in May, in the year of our lord 2011, a lone Munro bagger (and his squidgy orange companion) set out on a journey into the unknown......life beyond his first 100 Munro's.
Car loaded with all the accoutrement's required for a trip into the hills of Scotland we set off on a challenge that had been set down late last year....for it was then that we had originally attempted these two Munro's....only to be thwarted by illness, injury and a splashdown of such magnitude that Crianlarich still reverberates from the after shocks!!
We parked the car up, as suggested, off the road at the turning into Auchessan farm. A chill wind blew through the trees and a windproof base layer was adorned...only to be replaced within minutes as the sun split the skies for a thin t-shirt...only to be covered up minutes later still by a waterproof as the first summer shower of the day landed with gusto around us. After two hundred metres this outer layer was shed and the t-shirt remained in place...as the sun split the skies yet again (this would repeat continuously all day long unfortunately)...we crossed beyond the threshold of Auchessan farm...onwards and upwards.
The trail is pretty straight forward as you head through the farm and follow the track to your left, up through a couple of cattle fences, dodge the orange cows with the long pointy horns, close the gate behind you and breath easily as you realise that you are no longer in any danger of being charged and gored by these vicious creatures (they fool no-one with their cud chewing placidity).
Follow the path alongside the burn (don't cross it) heading up the Alt Riobain, continue climbing to gain height and carry on through a deer fence and on until the fence on your left reaches it's end. There are fine views of both Munro's from here and further back to Ben More, also down the A85 towards Killin.
It would be tempting to cross the Alt Robain here, but dont. There is a far easier crossing around 300 metres further upstream, just below the dam, and will save anyone the indignaty of falling into the water and having to cut short their trek as a result. Lying on ones back in a river, looking like an upturned toirtoise, is not recommended by this bagger. Once across the stream you reach a path, which is used by vehicular access to service the dam, which you cross on a north-east bearing to Sgiath Chuil.
The going here is rather wet through moorland....lots of squelching through boggy ground...and care should be taken of where one steps. The slope starts to rise steeply and you need to head for the gap between the crags of Sgiath Chrom at 853 meters and Sgiath Chuil at 921 meters...though it is no hardship to head for Sgiath Chrom first then traverse the open platuea to Sgiath Chuil and climb the short but steep slope to the summit cairn.
There are some brilliant views from here and thankfully we did it on a sunny day with cloud cover high enough in the sky not to be problematic from a visibility point of view.
I was able to pick out Ben Vorlich and Stuc a Chroin, the Lawers range, the hills of Tyndrum, Bridge of Orchy and Dalrigh and not forgetting Ben More and the Crianlarich hills beyond...it was fun to sit and name all the ones I have previously climbed, but also quite sad to realise that I have almost completed the Munro's around here as i love this area and will never tire of wanting to come here and stay on my trips away.
Meall Glas was visible, as was my intended target for the following day Ben Challum, the only thing missing was a visible path off Sgiath Chuil. It quickly became apparent that I would require to lose a vast amount of height and drop down to a bealach at 600 meters between the two Munro's, then climb steep grassy slopes for 350 meters to attain the summit of Meall Glas. On a warm sunny day, with occasional bursts of rain, this was disheartening enough...in terrible conditions the traverse down the slopes of Chuil into the bealach would have been disheartening and treacherous!!
Once in the Lairig a' Churain it is back to dodging through boggy ground, gaiters are such a godsend...all hail gore-tex...before a steep climb northwest to reach the ridge of Beinn Cheathaich...which climaxes at a summit cairn and trig point at 937 meters...but is still 1 kilometre away from the summit cairn of Meall Glas at 959 meters. From Beinn Cheathaich there is a visible path, the first of the day, leading to the cairn on Meall Glas.
We sat awhile at the cairn, taking pictures and a video (which had to be binned due to the wind drowning out the commentary).
There appeared to be no clear path off of Meall Glas, in keeping with the majority of the day, so look to descend carefully between the broken crags on the southeast of the summit before heading down steep grassy slopes through Meall Glas Bheag.
Eventually reach a burn heading down through Creag nan Uan and follow it back to the plantation fence and a clear gate leading back to the rear of Auchessan farm.
We eventually arrived back at the car, tired sweaty and desperate to get out of muddy boots (they would need a proper clean before starting again tomorrow) after 4.5 hrs.
A short drive was all that was required to reach the overnight accomodation at Inverardran. After being shown to my room, having a shower, cleaning the boots, sorting out damp gear, sending texts...I was ready for a stroll into Crianlarich village for my tea. I would usually stay at the Crianlarich hotel but unfortunately it was full at short notice so I just ate there instead. It is not easy to claim that you slum it when away on these trips.....especially when the menu boasts roast pidgeon for starter and crispy pork belly for main course, followed by berry trifle, all washed down with Crabbies alcoholic ginger beer.....so i wont even try.
Even as I strolled back along the roadside to the Inverardran, which was a very acceptable little B&B to stay at, I could feel the start of the rain that was to sweep in through the night and rob me of any chance of adding to my total in the morning.
After a restless nights sleep, do I ever have any other kind (??), and a hearty breakfast, I sat and watched as the rain fell in torrents outside. I drove along to the start point of the walk to Ben Challum and briefly thought it was going to be kind to me and stop, or ease off, to then realise that my windscreen wipers were struggling to keep up with the water cascading across my car...sensible decisions are hard to take at times like these...but the thought of trudging through such rain, having no views, getting no pics, alone was just too depressing so I headed for home with my tail between my legs.
I'm pretty sure that will not be my last failed trip of the year...it was just frustrating that it followed such a lovely day previously. Oh well, at least I live to fight another day.
Till next time....
