Timeline...Friday 28th October 2011 Location...Cluanie Inn
Objective...Bagging two more Munro's in Glen Shiel (A'Chralaig and Mullach Fraoch-Choire)
Team members...Myself accompanied by Jelly McBaby and Sid
Whilst yesterday had been most enjoyable as an opportunity to add to my tally of bagged Munro's, so far, on a gentle meander along a mostly clear path on wide slopes...today would be more in keeping with the general perception of Munro's in Glen Shiel, narrow ridges, sharp inclines and boggy steep descents. The biggest difference of course between the two days would be that I had company along today. As well as Jelly McBaby being by my side again, we would be joined by Sid on this trip as he seeks to increase his own running total.
Knowing that Sid would be arriving at 0820 sharp I made a concerted effort at getting out of bed nice and early, showering (without running the risk of blistering today) and having the car all packed and ready to go before breakfast. I was halfway through my toast and sausage when Sid pulled up outside...where he waited patiently for me to finish breakfast, have a pre walk anxiety poo, then check out (without any hint of a smile from the lady that runs the Cluanie Inn...I'm putting that down to it being the end of a very long season rather than anything I may have done whilst staying there!!).
Warm greetings then off along the short drive (I could get used to that) to the start point on the A87 east of the Cluanie Inn.
Conditions were mixed at the start as we wavered about clothes to wear before we left the cars behind. It was damp but not wet so the waterproofs would remain in the rucksack for the time being...especially as the slog uphill was reputed to be arduous. So off we set at 0845 along a short section of the A87 to the start of the climb...
Immediately the road was left behind the ascent began, unlike yesterday when I was wandering along a path without feeling any real effort in gaining height, this was oh so different.
Within minutes my calves were screaming at me to stop and take a picture, and continued so, all the way up the steep embankment to the 750m mark...which brought us out on the south ridge of A'Chralaig within the first 45 mins.
Our arrival on the ridge appeared to coincide with the start of a gale force wind blowing us sideways...I'm starting to think that Sid is a wind jinx!!
The conditions remained clear and we could see most of the route ahead to A'Chralaig, including its large prominent cairn. We could also see that there had been a fresh fall of snow during the night, nothing too worrying, but a fresh challenge none the less. I had opted against wearing my Scarpa Manta's for one last use of my Scarpa ZG10 GTX's for the season before the worn down lugs lead me to replacing the sole unit. If the rocky path is overly slippy I may well live to regret that choice!!!
We both decided to throw on our waterproof jackets at this stage, for the ridge would offer no protection from the unrelenting wind.
And off we set left along the line of the ridge as it rose upwards in stages to the 1000m mark, before turning north-east and continuing to rise until we reached the summit cairn of A'Chralaig 1120m.
All along the ridge, from the moment we rose onto it until we reached the summit, the views along to Mullach Fraoch-Choire (our second Munro of the day) and the adjoining routes nearby had been fantastically clear. We were able to pick out the Brothers ridge, with the Sisters ridge beyond that...
Ciste Dubh next to our route...
the three Munro walk I had completed the previous day alone...
and of course the South Glen Shiel ridge across the expanse of Loch Cluanie behind us...
We were pretty sure we could pick out the Glen Affric Munro's in the not so far distance before the gloom settled on us...
Just prior to the summit being reached, unfortunately, the gloom did decide to throw us a curved ball and remove our views.
We stopped at the cairn long enough to take the necessary pics then plotted our continued route north to a steep rocky descent northwest then back north to a col.
The ridge then continues along to a top at 1008m and then returns to another col. The views into Glen Affric and indeed Loch Affric from here are well worth the look. The ridge narrows and in the wind we had today is a risky proposition to undertake so close to the edge of a steep drop...but be aware of the danger and do not be caught off guard by the conditions should they worsen.
We were truly relishing the challenge of the ridge walk today, although not the hardest we have ever done, the wind was providing enough of a challenge to keep us on our toes at all times. As the ridge follows the curve of the corrie on our right we were getting some cracking views when the mist was lifting, especially on the lea side of the corrie where the snow was already beginning to gather.
Onwards and upwards we traversed now as the ridge thinned out in places and the snow beneath our boots got thicker then slidier on the rocks...until eventually, just prior to coming to the pinnacles, it thinned out and we returned to wet rocks beneath our boots.
We decided to leave our rucksacks wedged against some rocks prior to attempting the path at the pinnacles, the wind was brutal by now and we didn't see the point in taking unnecessary risks. So we filled our pockets with essentials, Jelly McBaby for a start, cameras GPS and car keys (in case we returned and our bags had been blown away!!). Unfortunately Sid had omitted to mention to me about car keys until we had left our rucksacks behind and I spent the remainder of the climb to the summit in a state of high anxiety that my bag would be blown over the edge of the ridge and I would have no way of driving home after we got back to the car!!
We also had to make a decision on the safety and sanity of climbing the pinnacles today, or taking the path down and around them, for fear of the strength of the wind currently trying to blow us off the ridge.
We erred on the cautious side for once and took to the lower path around the worst of the pinnacles (though we have vowed to return next year with the intention of climbing them), though this was still a perilous undertaking. There is still enough exposure on the path, in this wind anyway, to make you hug the wet rocks tightly on occasion.
The summit of Mullach Fraoch-Choire 1102m is not too far from the end of the pinnacles and has another large cairn to mark it, as well as a decent size shelter from the wind. Thankfully Sid could think of no Bon Jovi references on this occasion and we sufficed ourselves with a short break to take some pics before heading back along the pinnacles and eventually our secure rucksacks against the same rocks as we had left them earlier. Sid decided he wanted/needed a sandwich stop and we chose a suitable site to call a halt behind an outcrop of rocks against the wind. No sooner had Sid got comfy though than the wind changed...now at this point our stories probably differ...as Sid claims that I had tempted fate by joking about the wind changing direction once I started to relieve myself against a rock (as had happened on our last trip) but that is utter tosh!!! Anyway, the wind did pick up, of that there is no dispute, and I did have my fly down at the time (okay I will hold my hands up to that one) but at least my leg remained dry this time!!
We headed back to the 1008m height and took the lower path heading down a steep but thankfully short scree slope to the head of Coire Odhar and a grassy path leading down to the glen below.
Once down in the glen the path is almost indistinguishable at times as it weaves through the undergrowth...just try to avoid the worst of the boggy areas and you should be fine by the time you reach the obvious landrover track. Once on this track it is around three kilometers back to the car and is a fine end to the walk as you turn round the corner and see Loch Cluanie stretch out in front of you again.
We made it back to the car by 1345 (a respectable 5 hrs after leaving and less than the suggested 6-8 hrs for this walk) content with our acheivement for the day. We both agreed that it was as fine a walk as either of us have done recently and would be ideal for beginners to ridge walks, it seemed to have a bit of everything thrown into its 13km.
Once back at the cars we sorted ourselves out and bade each other farewell until the next arranged trip on November 26th and 27th (Ben Lui circuit). I will endeavour to be out and about before then though folks...but in the meantime continue to enjoy your walking.....
Only eleven days had passed since my adventure on the Brothers ridge with Sid..I could still relive the memory of the biting gale force winds knocking me off my feet and the driving rain in between gusts in my waking thoughts. The weather in between those eleven days had not improved in any significance...indeed it had probably deteriorated, but then it is October after all. I had read a few reports on walkhighlands in the days leading up to this that described snow lying on the summits, and paths that are often walkable being less so now. Couple this with a few anxiety provoking moments recently at work and I was possibly not in the best frame of mind for going out alone...but alone I would be for the first day...undeterred by this I set off for the Cluanie Inn mid afternoon on the 26th October.
I had always fancied an overnighter at the Cluanie...it always looked so appealing when you drive along past it on the A87 towards Skye...and now I was to spend the next two nights here as my walking base. As the walking season is slowly grinding down the client base is whittling down to the last few hardy souls (or those too stubborn to give up) daring to venture into the shortened autumnal days with unpredictable weather. It really is a time of all four seasons in one day...
I relaxed in my room with a few snacks and a sandwich for tea, then settled down to read my book and eventually watched the end of El Dorado (John Wayne shooting up the town baddie) before a restless night ensued.
I awoke less than refreshed at around seven...soon to doze for another quarter an hour...then jumped into the shower in the hope of waking me up fully...then jumped out again when the water almost blistered my skin!! It would appear that I had the only room with a water thermostat set to kill...and it was taking no prisoners!! Not to be thwarted by this I developed a technique of water on/jumping under until unbearable...water off...water on/returning to get a little wetter...water off...etc until I had been fully washed. This was, unfortunately, the only way I could get a shower and was extremely annoying and time consuming...I would be later than anticipated on the hills at this rate. Breakfast was next up and I have no complaints about that...other than a fellow guest trying to snort back the entire innards of his nasal cavity between slurps of his coffee...how his three companions put up with that on a daily basis without doing him physical harm was beyond my comprehension, as I wished ill on him within five minutes of sitting down!!!
Not the best of starts to two days away to relax and take my mind off of other worries...but then I'm not here to socialise or make friends...walking and bagging are the aims of the trip and I would allow nothing to take my focus off of that. Packed up and ready to go I drove the short distance to the start point (oh my that sounds good) only a little behind schedule...okay it was almost thirty minutes actually...and arrived to find the car park empty. Looks as though the weather had deterred others and I would be completely alone all day...just how I liked it when I feel like this.
It is a large layby on the A87 at Lundie...recognisable to anyone that drives the road regularly as being next to the large white camper van that appears to reside there permanently...at around the midpoint of Loch Cluanie.
The walk starts across the road and follows, initially, the old road before heading up a stony track, steeply, towards a mobile phone transmitter mast. Just beyond here there is a small cairn marking the route uphill following an old stalkers path, turn right and follow this.
In good conditions this path would be a delight underfoot, but today it was rather boggy in places lower down, though that soon passed as height was gained. The path meanders more than climbs, unusually for this area, and I soon passed the flat shoulder of An Cruachan and began a steeper slog up a slope left of Coire nan Clach, zig zagging as I went until I reached the west ridge of Carn Ghluasaid. The path continues onto the broad plateau until two small cairns come into sight.
The summit cairn of Carn Ghluasaid 957m is the one on the left and sits on the edge of a steep drop down cliffs below...so take care in poor conditions.
Jelly McBaby came out for a look see and sat carefully on the summit cairn...he had not risked coming out on the Brothers ridge the other week (and rightly so) as the wind had been horrendous!!
But here he felt safe enough to venture onto the cairn and enjoyed getting to stretch his short pudgy legs...
Just as I had finished taking snaps on the summit the first drops of rain landed and were quickly followed by more, turning to the south-east I could make out a descending weather front that would soon be on me (and not leave me for the rest of the day unfortunately) so adorned weather proof jacket and trousers as quickly and safely as I could...perhaps teetering about with a boot stuck in the leg of my trousers wasn't the best idea so close to the edge!!
Before the weather closed in around me though I had gotten a decent view of the next Munro on my route...Sgurr nan Conbhairean...so without further dallying I set off along the edge of the cliffs on my right and followed the path along to a gentle descent then a steep rise to Creag a Chaorainn. The ridge changes direction and heads to the left, keeping the deep jagged cliffs of the corrie on your right, then flattens out as you arrive at the Glas Bhealach...a large open plateau resembling the surface of the moon in poor visibility.
The ridge returns north and then climbs steeply to the summit dome of Sgurr nan Conbhairean 1110m. This time the summit cairn is unmistakable as it is so large (a feature of quite a few of these hills) and offered some much needed shelter in poor conditions.
I was cold and wet and possibly miserable as well just now...certainly my mind was not as focused as usual, which could explain the mistake I almost made next.
Convinced that I could see a path of sorts I headed off down a grass slope to my right instead of my left and almost paid the price for a moments lapse of concentration (another lesson learned) as I headed along and down a sharp embankment that would have taken me down into the corrie below if I had slipped. Realising my error I scrambled back up the grassy slope to the cairn and reassessed my position. I could see nothing around me to give me any visual clue so relied on my GPS to get me off safely...the path was to my left and headed down gently around the edge of the corrie I had almost stumbled into. The slope steepened again and I headed down towards the obvious bealach off the north ridge.
I then crossed a short boggy section and began to climb again, but only a short distance this time, before arriving at the summit cairn of Sail Chaorainn 1002m.
The weather cleared long enough for me to see another top along the ridge from me which looked higher...but it's actually 1m smaller.
If the weather had been nicer I would have wandered along to the other summit as there may have been a way down to Prince Charlies cave from there which was below me on the summit but completely inaccessible in this weather from this position. As the weather once again closed around me I retraced my steps back to the bealach and began the climb back up to Sgurr nan Conbhairean, turning off on a path around 150m short of the summit to head around the side of the Munro. I then descended the south-east ridge and headed along it to Drochaid an Tuill Easaich. I had traversed a fine but short arete on way but had no views down to the Gorm Lochan on my left or Toll Easach on my right. The path on the way down, at this point at least, is fine but does require views to take your mind off the monotony of going downhill alone. This is not helped by the path becoming boggier as you descend, eventually through some really wet underfoot conditions at a small bealach just before reaching Meall Breac...then predictably, as has been the case with all of these Munro's so far in Glen Shiel, the route takes a turn through steep wet boggy slopes with no distinct path (other than the trudged squashed underfoot gorse) meaning a lot of slipping and sliding and lost footing and, oh, perhaps the occasional cursed word...!!!
If I were to do this route again (next year with Baino perhaps??) I would be compelled to simply return across all three summits and avoid the boggy final hour and a half descending Meall Breac and crossing the Allt Coire Lair and trudging along the old military road back to the mobile phone transmitter...But on this occasion I had no choice as I was already committed to it.
I crossed the Allt Coire Lair as high up as I could as I would imagine it being less easy further down, then traversed down the wet path on the east side of the stream until reaching a small gate (wide open as it happens...not exactly in keeping with the country code) and access to the military road back to the transmitter mast.
After closing the gate behind me I set off on the final half hour of my journey and arrived back at the car just five and a half hours after leaving it in the layby (7-9 hrs was the estimation for this route), cold and wet but no longer miserable...another three Munro's under my belt (144 now) and knowing that only a short trip along the road was required to reach the Cluanie Inn and warmth. Once back at the Inn I queried the shower temperature and was offered the room next door instead...now that's service. After transferring all my gear next door, showering in warmth with my skin intact and blister free, I scoped out the bar and settled on steak and ale pie washed down with a celebratory bottle of Crabbies for my tea...then retired for another evening of John Wayne and my book rather than fork out £9 for two hours Internet access to write my blog...until tomorrow.....
I found myself being four whole weeks (30 days to be exact!!) since my last sojourn up a Munro, with only one abortive attempt in between to stop my salivation from turning to full on frothing!! In between times my mood had been in full on decline, work sucked, gym was tedious, nothing I tried could replace that mountain high I get when I summit...this was possibly the most eagerly anticipated trip I had planned...well since the last one anyway.
The targets on this occasion were to lie deep in the heart of Glen Sheil, one of the most beautifully mountainous areas I had ever set foot in. Mike had asked me along to try the Brothers ridge, not as well known as the Sisters ridge, and certainly not as arduous or popular as the South Glen Sheil ridge, but challenging in it's own right.
I set off on Saturday afternoon for an overnight stay at Drumnadrochit, it may well be an age thing but I do like to be relaxed the night before a walk, in the Drumnadrochit hotel. I had stayed there once before, following an ascent of the South Glen Sheil ridge last year, so knew what to expect from my stay. The rooms are clean and tidy, the staff helpful (once I explained my early departure the following morning I was allowed to pay in advance and even got money off for missing breakfast), and the location superb. They even let me sit in the closed dining area when I explained that I was getting no wifi signal in my room...Barca were playing after all and it helps me relax.
Mike got in touch before I retired for the night to let me know that it would just be the two of us, despite at least two others intimating that they would be joining us this time, which at least meant the Polo would not be overly taxed with heavy walkers weighing her down...she is only little!!
After 45 minutes of being mesmerised by Messi and co I headed upstairs for an earlyish night, head full of dreams of what was to come tomorrow...
I was up, showered, packed and out the door by half past seven on Sunday morning, meeting Mike at the Cluanie Inn at twenty past eight meant I would need all my time getting there safely at a leisurely pace. I arrived bang on time and transferred Mikes gear into my car and left his car at the Cluanie for when we got off the ridge. One last final check that he had everything he needed, and had left the things in his car that he would require for the finish, like a dry change of clothes etc, and off we set along the A87 to the start point seven miles away. Now as I was driving I was CLEARLY concentrating on the road and expecting Mike to be on the look-out for the parking area...yet we completely missed it the first time and had to do a u-turn (admittedly only a short distance past it) and come back up to it. An inauspicious start?? Oh I'm sure we wont make such an error as that again today!!
We packed up our gear and checked twice to make sure we had everything we needed...yet somehow I managed to leave without picking up my GPS from the boot when I had carefully left it sitting next to my walking poles so that I would remember it prior to departure!! Thankfully we had only gone a few hundred yards when I noticed and ran back for it. Departure take two!!
Mike had headed off along a clear path, passing through a gate, to start slogging uphill...then realised that it was the wrong path and came back towards me...Departure take three!!
We set off back along the road for a short distance, towards the sign for Glen Sheil beside some forestry fences, then cut off uphill at a (blink and you would miss it) rough outline of a path heading up through boggy slopes (oh my favourite).
We climbed initially in clear skies and almost sunshine...would the gods be kind to us today...?? Well what do you think?? Within minutes of hitting the slopes it started to rain, just drizzle to start with, but enough to make the path boggier than before and have us slipping about it like Bambi on ice...we followed the path across a stream and skirted round the slopes on a relatively flat bit...until Mike realised that we should have kept to the left hand side of the stream and followed an even fainter path up it to the summit of the ridge...well we were not going to double back on ourselves, even if it were just a short distance, so plodded up the slopes we currently found ourselves on...how much harder could it be for goodness sake?? Apparently the answer was much harder!! This would probably not be much of an issue in decent weather, with drier underfoot conditions to contend with, but today it was a nightmare!! If we thought we had been slipping about a lot before it was nothing compared to how often we would take a step up and slide two back as the grass gave way beneath us!! Halfway up and the heavens really opened...so I stopped to put on my waterproof over trousers...within five minutes of putting on my waterproof I had to answer a call of nature...I positioned myself on the wet slopes with the wind blowing away from me...prepared for the feeling of relief that would follow...then the wind changed and I peed all over my waterproofed leg!!! Aaaarggghhh remind me again what it is I find enjoyable about all of this??
We trudged on up the slopes for what seemed like forever, continuing to slip every few steps, until we stepped onto the summit ridge. As if by magic, or some kind hearted gesture, the rain stopped at this point, though not enough to make us relax and remove waterproofs.
We laughed about how hard we had found that ascent but knew deep down that the hardest part was probably over...we had gained height. The path on the ridge is very clear and can be followed all the way along to the final height before descent...but I'm getting ahead of myself...we noticed that the rain may have ceased but the wind had picked up as we had gained the ridge. "Not to worry, I'm sure we have walked in worse than this"...was our initial thought...but now (after the event) I'm not so sure. When two large built blokes weighing between 14.5 stone and 16 stone (but you carry it so well Mike) struggle to stand upright and start to get blown over you just know it's a strong wind!! The path along the ridge may well have been obvious but it became clear that we would have to err on the side of caution at times and avoid the path if the ridge thinned out near the edge of any steep drops, just to avoid the possibility of being blown off. It didn't even have the decency to be blowing us along the ridge, rather it was coming in at us from our right side, so we looked a right pair of charlies constantly leaning to the left as we were buffeted along...
We reached the summit of Saileag 956m after a remarkably short distance, so much so that we didn't realise it was the summit until we double checked our GPS devices. The wind at this point was horrendous...so Jelly McBaby was risk assessed and remained in the rucksack for the entire duration of the walk...if I couldn't stand upright what chance did the wee fella have??!!
We took a couple of pics at the summit cairn then carried on our merry way, swaying from side to side as the wind buffeted us then stopped then buffeted again all the way along the ridge towards Sgurr a Bhealach Dheirg.
We descended and ascended a couple of minor tops along the ridge, taking pics at the occasional breaks in the rain that had started again just as we had left the summit.
Then just as we thought we had seen the worst of the weather...the mist rolled in. Now we knew it was never going to be an easy day...but come on!!
We continued being blown along the path until we arrived at a steep climb heading to the summit...or so we thought initially...as the climb flattens out and heads off south-east to a cairn, which you could believe was the summit cairn if you didn't know you had to scramble along a narrow ridge to reach the true summit...which we did (it pays to do your homework) and so set off along the rocky spur to the true summit cairn of Sgurr a Bhealach Dheirg 1038m.
How on earth the cairn maintains it's hold on the Munro in weather like this is beyond belief...We scrambled up to the cairn and took the usual pics, taking extra care not to be blown off as the drop looked quite scary from my perch on the edge of the cairn. The rocks were soaking and very slippery and the wind was brutal...at one stage I had went to take a pic and the wind blew the camera round in my grip so I missed my shot!!!
Once we had taken our pics we reversed our steps and got back onto the relative safety of the ridge...only one more summit to go...a personal landmark approached.
There was one more summit before the Munro...a few drops and ascents to contend with afterwards also...and we stopped for a sandwich break below the 938m top before Aonach Meadhoin.
The weather had broken in our favour at this stage and we were able to sit in relative calm for five minutes whilst Mike tucked into his sandwich and I tanned a few flapjack bites (good for slow release energy), then we were off and upwards to the summit itself...then down and back up to the summit cairn on Aonach Meadhoin 1001m.
Mike set up the tripod again and we braved the wind and rain to celebrate with a pic at the cairn for my 141st Munro...exactly halfway point now that one has been demoted to Corbett status.
We followed the path off the top and traversed another two tops (Sgurr an Fhuarail at 986m and another unnamed top at 843m) before finally making our way down steep grassy slopes back to the Cluanie Inn...unfortunately they were even worse for slipping than the climb up initially had been...Mike was on the verge of losing his composure at one stage after his umpteenth fall and slide down on his knees...zorbing would have been a great idea from the top of here...and so much quicker!!
Though the path was faint it was also pretty obvious in clear conditions, thankfully we had left the mist behind and only had the wind and rain to contend with on the way down. Mike realised that we had actually made good time, considering the state of us, and could feasibly make it back to the Cluanie Inn within five hours of leaving there this morning...zorbing would have taken at least another half hour off of that!!
We arrived at the bottom of the hill and had only one more hazard to cross before reaching the Inn...a small ditch and some rusty barbed wire fencing. Mike managed to fall in the ditch and I managed to cut my hand and gash my leg (but not tear my new trousers) on the fencing as I attempted to stand on it to let Mike cross it safely...DOH!!!
Once back at the car Mike got changed out of his wet clothes and asked me to pass him his dry trainers for driving in...except they were nowhere to be seen...ah the final turn of events for this trip...he had packed them up and left them in my car way back at the start point...DOUBLE DOH!!! He then had to drive the seven miles along the road to my car in his socks...never the easiest thing to do after such a day of hard graft. Once back at my car we sorted ourselves out and said our goodbyes...only 12 days till we return and attempt another two Munro's up here A'Chralaig and Mullach Fraoch-choire...
Oh and the Bon Jovi reference in the title...when we reached the final cairn Mike turns to me and says "it's just like that song...we're halfway there...and earlier when the wind almost blew us off the ridge we were living on a prayer" which I now cannot get out of my head...cheers for that bud!!!
With my Munro high in full buzz the 3.5 hour drive home was a pleasant blur, full of smiles and the occasional chuckle about what we had just gone through...goodness knows what other motorists must think I'm up to on the journey home!!!
Until the next trip take care and pray that Jelly McBaby can return safely to his rightful place on Munro cairns.....
