3 weeks of climbing the walls...then 4 Munro's in a day!!

Three weeks...or 23 excruciatingly long days to be precise...since I last set foot on a Munro. After the elation I had felt on my last trip away to Braemore, alone, I wanted more of the same, but was happy to have some company once more on this occasion. I planned a return to Braemore...well actually Torrandhu bridge (which is quite a few miles before Braemore) on the A835...on Tuesday 22nd May. I could have planned an overnight excursion, given the distance and my shifts being compatible, but opted instead for an early morning rise and lengthy drive to Inverness to collect young Michael Irvine (he had previously accompanied me on Geal Charn). I arrived at his Inverness abode just after eight in the morning and quickly filled the back seat of his car with my walking poles, boots and rucksack. We set off into rush hour traffic (Snecky stylee) and were through it in minutes...over the Kessock bridge and away to our destination...through the thinning fog as we prayed that it was only coastal mist...prayers answered for once as we neared the start point and left the mist behind in town.

Upon arrival at Torrandhu bridge we squeezed into the last remaining space in the layby, another four cars were already there so the possibility of meeting other walkers was pretty high. The sun shone down on us as we adorned boots and packs, me leaving long sleeved tops in packs and electing to go with the t-shirt and suncream look instead...

Michael must have been feeling the cold slightly as he started off in a long sleeved baselayer...but this didn't last too long as the heat was overwhelming again (much as it had been on my last trip out here). We followed the Abhainn an Torrain Dubh as it snaked along the floor of the glen...rising ever so slightly as it heads towards the eastern Fannichs that awaited us ahead. A number of narrow shallow gorges flowed down to the weather station that we had passed at the start of the walk, and there were a variety of different formations in the rocks caused by centuries of the water flowing over them...

As the stream narrowed further up the higher we got, there were more than a couple of decent small pools with water cascading into them...land of the shining water right enough.

Pretty as the cascading water was...and man it looked so inviting on the walk back...the main focus of today was the four Munro's lying to the east of Loch Fannich. We continued along the west bank of the stream until we came to a junction of water flows...the Allt an'Loch Sgeirich flows to meet the Abhainn an Torrain Dubh...which we crossed over and followed a faint path uphill away from the streams. This led us to the minor top of Creag Dubh Fannaich, which we traversed onto the broad shoulder, before beginning the ascent of Beinn Liath Mhor Fannaich. 

We reached the summit cairn after a slight struggle to cope with the increased wind battering against us...donned longer tops to combat the sudden chill of summit arrival...then sat back to have some juice and much needed bite to eat. Even at this early stage I knew I was having a slight problem with my breathing...especially into the wind!! I was struggling to catch a decent large breath every time I turned to face the wind...coupled with a sharp pain in my chest when I lifted my right arm...DAMN this had the potential to slow me right down and cost us a decent end time!!!

Jelly McBaby came out on the cairn and was mightily impressed at the phallic nature of it...an outstanding erection if ever there was one (fluff now I'm turning into Frankie Howerd!!!). Beinn Liath Mhor Fannaich sits at a height of 953m and is vastly overshadowed by it's near neighbour, Sgurr Mor, which was our next target for the day. We sat in the lea of some rocks to get out of the increasingly cold wind whilst we contemplated the best route off the top and down to the bealach...obviously, with the weather being this clear, we decided to just head off in line of sight (after checking the map for potential hazards) and scrambled carefully down through a boulder field...completely missing the path to our right...until we reached the bealach below and found the more than obvious path of descent.

Thankfully Michael didn't seem troubled by this and actually enjoyed the extra challenge of the boulder field...I get the feeling he is taking to this like a natural. Once down at the bealach the path veers to the left of some huge crags...skirting around the corrie until height is regained. We passed an unusually placed shelter, presumably for stalkers many years ago, directly on the path prior to it heading back up the slopes to Sgurr Mor. There would have been room for a couple to shelter out of the worst conditions of winter until rested and able to continue, or sit out a stormy night on the hill, if required. We continued to climb the path, losing it briefly on occasions, but always found it again, Michael bounding ahead (always looking fresh and able to dig out some extra energy if needed). I was toiling up the slopes!! But the one quality I possess, above all others required on the hills, is an ability to dig in when required and never give up...I dug deep into this today for the ascents as my chest ached with attempts to breath deeply, always falling short of a full breath. We eventually pulled onto the summit ledge and stood in awe of the massive summit cairn...teetering on the edge of the drop into the corrie below. Summit pics would have to be taken carefully near such a drop, and in such winds. Thankfully the coldness in the wind had abated and all we were left with was the prevailing strength of it in our faces as we turned to face the next two Munro's on our quest. We sheltered behind the cairn and took fluid and food on board...and obviously prepared for summit poses...

I carefully climbed the cairn and placed Jelly McBaby atop it (well he sometimes requires an extra help when his pudgy little legs won't reach) and had five attempts at getting him to stand up in the wind...I was scared that he would blow off and I would never see him again if he fell down into the corrie below!!

I had no such worries of Michael...even though he has such a slight build and the wind was quite strong...

Clearly one as rotund as myself had no such worries about standing on the edge of the precipice...finally a use for being so sturdy!! Sgurr Mor sits at a height of 1110m and is clearly the highest Mountain in the vicinity...it's nearest rival is Sgurr nan Clach Geala, with it's impressive alpine gully on display from this angle.
With pics taken and refreshments consumed...and fears of rain from Michael abated (he hadn't realised that the snow melt was being blown back up the crags by the wind and was spraying us...poor boy thought a cloudless sky could bring rain...bless!!) we continued on our merry way...off the summit and down to the broad bealach between here and Meall Gorm.
The distance between these two summits is longer than we first envisaged...there is one minor top between them then a considerable drop and climb to regain height before reaching the summit. Whilst traversing the last climb to the summit we passed the only other walker we would meet all day (though we had already seen two on the minor top before Beinn Liath Mhor Fannaich, we hadn't actually passed them to speak to). We stood for a short while passing pleasantries, letting him know what lay ahead for him, and him telling us likewise. Then off we set in our opposite directions, him to Sgurr Mor and us to Meall Gorm. We watched him for a while as we began to realise how far we had just walked (so far)...and how far we still had to go.

At the second bealach the fork to the right should be ignored, unless you fancy heading off here and making the trek down to Loch Fannich, and continue on the left path to the summit of Meall Gorm at 949m. It is a flat topped Munro with a small cairn to mark it's highest point on an outcrop of rocks. Yet again there was a rather phallic feel to this cairn, but Michael would soon remedy this. He decided to alter the appearance of the cairn to give it a more sacrificial plinth feel to it...he really is getting into this in a big way...I like it.
We all took our turns posing at this newly modified cairn...

Jelly McBaby was able to sit on the alteresque cairn without fear of falling too far...and the wind was certainly abating at this stage anyway.

Michael opted for a crouching position for his summit pose...with An Coileachan behind him...

I will assume any position that lessens the appearance of bloatedness...
With the next summit in sight and the skies still clear (though thankfully less sunny than previously) we set off to get this thing done...stopping only briefly for Michael to sit at the stalkers shelter and attempt to adopt an air of regality...

We followed the 'path' down to the obviousness of Bealach Ban then traversed slightly to the left...though not enough apparently...and made our way up through stony slopes to reach the summit plateau of An Coileachan...and eventually the summit cairn at 923m which sits atop a sandstone outcrop. It is yet another huge boulder cairn at the summit, but not balanced on the edge of a corrie this time around. The final summit pics were taken here and the route plotted for the return journey...

 Jelly McBaby had to take shelter between rocks, rather than on them, as the wind picked up again and threatened to blow him off (ooh-er missus)...

Clearly there was no risk of Michael being blown off when he took his position on the cairn...

I, on the other hand, look ready to be blown off at a moments notice...The descent down from the summit involved a straight forward walk off towards the basin of Loch Gorm  below to the left...follow the easiest route of descent down the steep slopes towards the Loch then turn right to follow an, at first, obvious path around the loch. The path soon disappears and you are left to follow your own instincts through the worst of the boggy ground and peat hags until you return to the river below...

The rest of the journey back was a boring and boggy retrace of steps along the river bank...even the fact that you can see the car for ages before you arrive was made worse by the incessant heat today...in fact the only glimmer of relief to the tedium of the return was when young Michael shouted me back to witness an adder slither away into the undergrowth...unfortunately we were both too late to get our cameras out and capture this...but it lifted our spirits enough to manage the remainder of the trek to the car with a slight spring in our step...8.5 hrs after setting off.

The next target for me is An Teallach (my personal holy grail) next Tuesday...with Angus Macleod...we pray that the mountain gods are smiling on us then also.

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A cathartic experience at braemore...or was it just sunstroke???

23rd of February...the date of my last solo trip to the hills...far too long in my book! I had enjoyed some mixed journeys and company in that time...but needed so much to be alone again. During the week I had travelled up to Skye and bagged my first two Cuillins over two days, yet not felt the sense of fantasticness that this trip would give me. The weather had been pretty bleak in Skye...though thankfully not the company...not improved on the journey home through Kintail and Inverness...and I had arrived back in Aberdeen to more of the same for the next two days. Saturday saw a slight improvement in conditions but a look online told me to expect cloud free Munro's on Sunday...but where to go?? I searched through a number of possibilities and settled on the Western Fannichs from Braemore junction...forecast was for clear skies, no rain, but hard frost and chilly temperatures...ideal I thought. I picked out a route that included three Munro's...then had an FB conversation with Rocket Ron (talkhighlands) who was attempting to persuade me to attempt all five from that side so that I would only require a one off trip...the thought of saving half a tank of diesel and 300 miles wear and tear on my car for a round trip had me piqued.  
So off to bed early on Saturday night with the trusty rucksack already packed...some pasta made up for lunch and procrastinations about the need for a flask or not?? Flask left behind when I left Aberdeen at just after five thirty AM on Sunday morning...no going back now...and drove the A96 again (I seem to be on it so much recently) to Inverness and beyond.
I arrived at the starting point, a layby on the A832, just beyond Braemore junction off the A835, at around nine o'clock...joining another two cars of walkers already there. One was a group of three from Edinburgh who had done my intended start route yesterday and were doing my intended (though only perhaps at this stage of the day) finish route today. The other two were a pair of older walkers that never really spoke to the rest of us, so don't actually know where they were intending to go,or indeed ended up.
The first thing I noticed as I left the car was the complete lack of wind in the area...then as I started walking I noticed the heat in comparison to the forecast I had read last night...I quickly ditched the thick baselayer top and replaced it with the only t-shirt I had with me...then realised that if things stayed this warm (or indeed got warmer later in the day) I only had a fleece hat to protect my head...DAMN!!

The next thing to notice, as I was leaving the car, was An Teallach dominating the skyline to my right. Tempted though I was to carry on and attempt her today, I knew she would keep for another day, she is one you want to share the experience of with others...Caberfeidh Munro Baggers Stylee!!
So instead I stuck to the initial plan and set off along the road a short distance to gain the access path leading along to Loch a Bhraoin...through the metal barrier across part of the path then followed along to cross a small wooden bridge before the path leads off into some trees...emerging at the far end after a short distance at the edge of Loch a Bhraoin.

From here there is another bridge to cross and then head off the path to the left and follow through boggy ground for some distance. This path skirts away from the stream running down between Meall a' Chrasgaidh and Sgurr Breac after you cross a small wooden bridge that is not marked on the OS maps to get across Allt Breabaig...

The "path" then turns into flattened grass through a series of bogs that can be followed for a while before turning uphill...or alternatively you can strike off through the bogs and try to get to high ground as soon as possible...you are going to end up there anyway so why delay?? Soon you are climbing the steep grassy slopes which will eventually lead you to a stonier top...which in turn will lead to the summit of Meall a' Chrasgaidh. All the way up this slope the far view of An Teallach just keeps getting better and better...as does the view of Sgurr Breac and A'Chailleach on your right...then eventually Sgurr nan Clach Geala appears over to the immediate right behind Meall a' Chrasgaidh's slopes.

 The long hard slog up the hill continued in sweltering heat...I found out later that I was walking in 15C...until it starts to flatten out...after an hour of walking so far...just below the summit and then entered snow line. The summit cairn comes as a surprise as the rest of the Munro's around all have rocky summits or are far higher than Meall a' Chrasgaidh...which sits no higher than 934m. I had to double check the GPS to ensure that I was actually on a Munro!! Thankfully I was and Jelly McBaby could celebrate on the summit cairn...such that it was!

There had been talk through the week of Jelly McBaby not joining me again on the hills...artistic differences being cited as one of a number of excuses...jealousy of my walking with others however being the main one. To put this to bed we had decided to agree to spend more time together alone on the hills, but not exclusively as some walks could still include company, but certainly almost two months without being alone during a walk had taken it's toll on our relationship...up to a point. We have a bond so strong that we should be able to rise above such issues and carry on being each others support network...him carrying me up hills and me listening to all his gripes and groans of doing so!

From the summit of Meall a' Chrasgaidh I headed south to the bealach between Sgurr nan Clach Geala and Carn na Criche, unfortunately I started to head towards Sgurr Mor instead of keeping right and heading to the bealach of 'Am Biachdaich...such was the fineness of the peak from this side I believed that it was walkable along with the others and in a doable time frame...sadly this would not have been the case...and anyway I would only have had to do it again when I return to do the lesser heights of the Eastern Fannichs...!!
Reality kick taken I returned to the bealach and started towards the frozen lochan and then up the steeper snowy slopes of Sgurr nan Clach Geala...the decision was already made in my mind that i would be attempting five rather than three summits today, I really didn't need the distraction of Sgurr Mor tempting me into a sixth!!

 The snow was soft beneath a crispy wind scoured top shell. The advice I was given back at the car (from yesterdays walkers) was to not require crampons for the slopes as the snow was soft underfoot...which, whilst not entirely true, was close enough to accurate for me. I traversed the steepening slopes to the right of the crags around the lower reaches of the corrie...and could see for miles as I gained height. No-one had followed my route and I felt all alone out here in this huge wilderness...fantastic!! Then I heard voices from above (no I hadn't found the lord) and two walkers appeared on the slopes above me, carefully picking their way down the previously frozen footsteps of yesterday, as they made their way towards me. We stood for a few moments and passed the time with each other, exchanging routes and plans and the like, checking out what each other were wearing...you know the type of elitist walker behaviours we exhibit!!

And then they were gone, heading off towards Sgurr Mor and the rest of the Eastern Fannichs on a circuit from Loch Fannich. I continued my climb through the snow around the crags until I topped out on the summit and located the broken trig point that masquerades as the summit cairn at 1093m...the largest of the Munro's I was doing today. Jelly McBaby took in all the views around us...of which there were indeed many wondrous ones...and then settled down to get his pic taken at the trig point.

Given that the cairn is the highest one for some distance I decided to stay here for longer than the previous one and take in all the views...but was inextricably drawn to the sheer volume of the corrie wall beneath my feet. It was truly alpine in appearance...the sheer scale of the corrie walls ensconced in masses of snow...fantastic to behold. I had to walk along the edge of the corrie to reach the down path leading to the next bealach and then the next Munro in my sights. I got some more pics of the corrie on the way down, from the other edge of the rim, and was more than impressed. From here I could make out the shape of Munro's yet to attempt in Torridon (Liathach, Beinn Eighe, Beinn Allign) and perhaps Slioch as well...and obviously An Teallach continued to dominate the skyline. 
I traversed the distance between Sgurr nan Clach Geala and the low pass at Cadha na Guite...then began the long hard slog uphill once more, to the right and then the left, avoiding the crags, all the way to the summit cairn of Sgurr nan Each at the far end of the summit ridge, sitting on the edge of a drop off the top at 922m. By this stage the weather was improving all the time and the temperatures were sitting steady at 15C...there was not a drop of wind when I stopped to take a lunch break at the summit cairn. I stopped here for a while and munched on my prepared pasta and swigged juice...until joined by another couple of walkers that had come up from the glen specifically to do this one Munro then reverse their route. I asked for one of them to take my pic, which they obligingly did, and then left them in peace to finish their own lunch...I had other targets in mind for today now...

I assessed the drop down into the valley as being unavoidable anyway...even to get to the exit route back to the car from here...so set about dropping down into the valley...always with one eye on the potential climb back up the other side onto Sgurr Breac. The way down was paved with dangers...slippy wet slopes and sinking bogs being the two worst...the climb up the other side looked just as wet and boggy.

Following a horrendous wet descent, almost falling on my arse a number of times (but in reality never landing once), I started up the slopes of Sgurr Breac...and am not ashamed to say that it nearly finished me off!! The heat was killing me and I couldn't get enough water on board...my legs were screaming at me to stop ascending...I contemplated returning to the glen and following the stream back to base...but knew that was never going to happen. So I gritted my teeth and kept pulling myself up the steepening slopes...forcing myself on to finish what I had started. It took what felt like forever to get anywhere near the foot of the final climb to the summit...through the final snow line and I would be there...it will all feel worth it when you spot the last Munro awaiting being ascended from here...I hoped!!
Sgurr Breac cairn sits at 999m and was worth every slow methodical step along the way...so Jelly McBaby says anyway.

The next summit, A Chailleach, was in sight and didn't actually appear as close as I had hoped at this stage. It looked a long trudge through snow and down into a steep drop off to reach the bealach of Tomain Coinich...I was also aware that I hadn't received a text from my work ate Willie about the football scores...surely that was a good sign?? I decided I could wait no longer to find out and attempted to call him...after all I had a good signal...but he didn't answer...so off I plodded into the snowy tracks of other walkers. As I was heading down hill my fone went off and I answered it to hear that the hoops had humped the huns off the park in a completely one sided match...then I promptly fell into a snow hole with one leg shooting down into wetness and the other not...then I fell over laughing about my stupidity (or lack of multi-tasking when speaking on the fone). The remainder of the trek to the summit was done with my full attention on the task in hand...always with the lessons learnt too late!!

A'Chailleach sits at 997m and the view back to the other four summits of today was fantastic to say the least. I had so little energy left by now I swigged the last of my juice and tanned a marzipan bar for a short term fix...then set off down the slopes towards Sron an Goibhre ridge, above Loch Toll an lochain. I followed the faded path for some distance before striking off to my right down the grassy slopes once more to bring me down to the floor of the lochain and then followed the confluence down to the Loch below...keeping high enough up the slopes to avoid the boggiest parts of the glen near the Loch. Eventually I found the exit stile to cross the deer fences...then the next one...then headed back through boggier ground to Loch Bhraoin once more...and eventually arriving back at the car 8.5 hrs after leaving it.
Apart from the terrible farmers tan that I now possess on both arms...and on my neck...it was a fantastic day, shared with my vicarious Munro climbing companion alone again.

Whilst I will continue to walk with others...as I do need human contact to remain semi sane at times...I will endeavour not to take Jelly McBaby for granted again and will be making time for us to share walks alone together as regularly as possible. Roll on the next available weekend off.....

I would also like to take this time to thank everyone that has supported this blog over the course of my first year...you all know who you are and how much your individual support has meant to me along the way...I thank you one and all xx

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Mixed feelings...then clarity arrives with a G'doosh!!!

These blogs are like buses at times...nowt for a few weeks then three are gonna come along all at once!! After taking a week to write up the report from Bruach na Frithe, I have decided to dive headlong into this one for Sgurr na Banachdich...time will tell if it is the right decision, but at the moment it feels like a bit of a chore to me and that's never been what the blog has been about. The whole point in doing this was to extend the feeling of joy the hills give me to others, some of whom are unable to do it physically, some logistically.

Despite a really good walk/scramble yesterday I instinctively knew all was not well inside...didn't know what it was...but just knew I had gotten less from yesterdays Munro than I usually do. It's not a particularly nice feeling when the thing that you rely on as your 'keepsafe technique' fails to have it's desired impact/effect. The worst thing was I had no one to discuss this with, no one to bounce my usually muddled thoughts off...and didn't have the foresight to know that this was where my issues really lay!!! My friend Asima had told me that she had grown tired of hill walking, didn't really see the point anymore, and my fear was that this had struck me down too...was the one thing I convince myself keeps me sane from the stresses of life having a reverse affect on me??? Was I growing out of love with bagging?? All these feelings of negativity were swarming around me and I hated it...Skye should have been the challenge I couldn't wait to accept (and then write about) but something was spoiling this for me...and I was looking in the wrong direction for answers!! Even Jelly McBaby was coming under question, despite my vociferous defence of him recently against some that think he has no place on summits!!

The day started with the weather much the same as yesterday...except colder and windier...and the cloud even lower (if that were possible). The drive from Broadford to Sligachan again...then keep going this time to Glen Brittle...wow, what a road that is (not one for driving in the dark, unless you have intuitive knowledge of the location of every HUGE pothole in the road!!). Then arrival at the Glen Brittle SYHA bothy at the foot of the Cuillin. There were already a number of cars in the car park area, and a large party of older walkers getting ready to depart...shame on us as we dismissed them as ramblers and discussed getting passed them as quickly as possible if they were taking the same access route as us!! As they say "you live and learn"...which was certainly the case today.

 We set off at a similar time to yesterday, again hoping that the cloud would clear for us when we arrived on the summit, but realistically knowing that more of the same was in store for us. The path follows the Allt a Choire Ghreadaidh for about a kilometre and a half (give or take) before heading off on a fainter boggy path up the hill side. We had managed to pass the group of older walkers by this stage and thought we would not see them again, unless it was on our way back down...

As we set off up the grassy slopes we could see the group beneath us splinter off into two groups...four following us and the rest heading off along the main path...suddenly reality dawned...those not following us were heading to do Sgurr a' Ghreadaidh and Sgurr a' Mhadaidh...two of the harder Munro's that we had decided to leave until the Caberfeidh Munro Baggers trip in June...which meant that the group now gaining on us were after an easier day...JUST LIKE US!!! Ouch that hurt to say out loud...my second day on Skye and I had chosen an easy option (not that anything in the Cuillins can be described as easy by the way)...not what I had expected at all. Too late to change now though, so onwards and upwards it was. We followed this faint path as it started to run alongside the Allt coir' an each, rising steeply on grassy slopes until we reached the foot of Coir' an Each. By this stage we had stopped to change layers again...the second time already...as the rain had started to drizzle more persistently. The group behind us then became the group in front of us...dogged oldies were impressing the hell out of me! 

The scree slopes of Coir' an Each were quite impressive and also quite daunting to attempt on the way up...especially as there was a suitable alternative available. We headed off to the left and started the steep climb up the slopes, initially through grass but becoming rockier and scree filled higher up, of An Diallaid. There was now no sign of the other group ahead of us...and until we gained a little height I did not realise why. They had gone into the main part of the Coir' and were looking at ascending the scree slopes...until they saw us gaining height on An Diallaid. They changed plans and headed up to follow us instead. We were now back in front and had a height advantage...but not for long. I stopped to admire a pair of walkers/scramblers on the opposite ridge, Sgurr nan Gobhar, as they picked their way down through the worst of the crags above the Coir'...breathtaking viewing from our vantage point as a slip could have proven fatal...and we watched them until they were past the down climb and walking upright along the ridge...well done them.

By this time our groups had merged and we carried on the rest of the climb together...it felt rude not to. One of the women was walking her first Munro, the others had been at it for years, with a multitude of experience between them, all four of them were in their late fifties and fit as a butchers dog...I hope I am as lucky in my advancing years...
We continued on to the top of An Diallaid and skirted the crags of Sgurr Thormaid as we advanced up the mist laden slopes.

Once at the top of here the ridge broadens and a bealach is reached beneath the last climb to the rocky summit...then the mist cleared behind us to reveal beautiful views down to Glen Brittle beach at the head of Loch Brittle...unfortunately the way ahead remained cloaked in cloud. Then voices could be heard coming towards us, the strange effects of the low cloud is that they feel almost on top of you before you actually see anyone. Two figures emerged through the mist, a walker and his guide, both looking suitably bedraggled after an early morning start further on up the ridge. They warned us of conditions higher up, apparently there was no chance of doing the In Pinn due to hoar frost on the upside, and the wind at the top was pretty rough (it was quite rough already I must say).

 With a cheery goodbye we set off for the final push to the summit...no more than quarter an hour away from us now. If the wind was so strong at the top perhaps we would have a chance of it blowing patches of cloud away for views?? We could but hope for such luck at this stage. The final part of the ascent was through very rough rock and the summit cairn sits atop a very narrow ledge above coire Thormaid. If the cloud were to clear now we would have excellent views of the bulk of the ridge...c'mon!!

Summit pics were taken as per...then the prayers were answered...well slightly answered...

An all too brief fleeting glimpse of Sgurr Dearg, with the In Pinn poking out above it. Then the wind blew back the curtain of mist and it was enveloped once more...DAMN!! As we were preparing to leave the summit I wanted once last pic of me with Jelly McBaby at the cairn...and was almost blown off my feet near the edge of the choire...too close for comfort!! When I turned around, shaking slightly, I noticed one of the other blokes struggling to stand up, he had been blown over!! It really was time to leave now...
As we returned down the path the thought of heading off to the left and attempting Sgurr nan Gobhar flitted through my head...then the reality of the wind buffeting that narrow ledge returned...perhaps another day?? We did deviate our descent to go down the scree slopes of Coir' an Eich though...that was fun in it's own way. Then once again we returned to the bottom of the Coir' and the grassy slopes beckoned our return to the access path far below...with a straight forward return to the car once more...G'Doosh!!! Suddenly it hit me what was wrong with me...and I couldn't explain it to anyone that would understand...even in company I felt so alone with my thoughts and must have been terrible to be around...
I needed redemption...to get away on my own once more...it had been too long since I had walked alone and I knew I had to get away as soon as possible, anywhere, but the forecast was terrible for the next few days and I was due back to work on Monday...then Sunday presented itself like a beacon of sanity awaiting my arrival...

  

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Nagging doubts...and a descent into turmoil!!!

First off, let me apologise for the lack of blog in the past few weeks, or rather the not updating it after completing recent walks!! It has been the result of a few personal issues that have contributed to this. Without going into any detail I must confess to suffering a lack of inspiration in the past two weeks...self inflicted and fully deserved on my part!! I must also point out that my last blog contained a rant that I wish to retract...based on recent events. I previously stated that the hills were all I ever needed to make me happy and fulfil my dreams (or words to that effect, the thought of going back to read them makes me cringe) and that all else was filler for me...but I was wrong!! The hills may contain most of the ingredients to fulfil me but lacks the ONE vital spark required for me to enjoy the experience fully...namely having someone to listen to all my outpourings of glee upon completion of another summit bagged...lesson learnt too late as usual!!

At least I know I can always rely on Jelly McBaby...or can I???

Since that last climb on 15th April there have been no fewer than seven new summits bagged in three separate adventures...including a five summit spectacular on Sunday past!

Where to start then?? Arrangements were made with my now regular walking companion, Louise Miller, to come up to meet her on Skye (where she presently works/resides at the Glen Brittle youth hostel) last Monday. The forecast was to be mixed whilst in Skye but the lure of attempting any of the Cuillins was too much to resist for this bagger.  The, almost entire, trip was done in incessant rain, which just seemed to get worse the closer I got to the Isle...especially as I arrived at Eilean Donan castle on route.

Upon arrival in Skye on Monday 23rd April I was met with the most severe downpour and feared that the trip would prove to be nothing more than a washout...thankfully not the case.

As it turns out the downpour was a regular event at the time I arrived, all week at the same time apparently, and stopped within an hour of my arrival...the skies cleared...the sun appeared...a late drive to the foot of the Cuillins to take in the sunset was in order...and I'm so glad I did as the pics would prove to be some of the best I captured in my three days there.

With such views to inspire a walker the following day could not come soon enough...my night would be filled with hope that the weather would hold sufficiently to allow me to walk amongst such beauty...

Unfortunately Mother nature is a cruel mistress!!! The following day started with an overcast sky...low cloud and a slight damp feel. Undeterred we set off to the start point at Sligachan...parked by the MRT base (as the other car park was full) and started our walk in from the path further back than intended. We soon approached the bridge over the river, duly ignored it and set off along the path for the white cottage.

The weather seemed to be holding for us as we strolled along the path, passed the cottage and headed off along an excellent approach path to the foot of Bruach na Frithe...plenty of decent views along the way, including some waterfalls and pools amongst the Allt Dearg Mor on the way up it's gradual incline. We followed this track to the high point of the bealach between Bruach na Frithe and Sgurr Basteir...all around on the traverse the views had been stunning...from Loch Sligachan with Sgurr Mhairi above it...to Marsco with Bla Bheinn behind it...Bruach na Frithe outline...Am Basteir hiding beyond Sgurr Basteir...Sgurr nan Gillean looking mean and moody in the lowering mist!!

As we approached the ascent track around Fionn Choire there was a definite descent of cloud/mist above us...the Cuillin was not for making it an easy day for us!!

From the moment we started our climb up Fionn Choire the mist grew thicker and limited our visibility of the peaks around us. The path follows the ridge around the corrie initially, before breaking off to the right and bearing through rockier underfoot conditions...mostly scree at this stage...as it gained height. When we arrived at the top of this initial climb the grass slopes gave way to real menacing rocky outcrops...jagged pinnacles of rocks against the backdrop of the corrie!! Thankfully the mist had dropped to such a level that it was impossible to make out the worst of the route...which meant that Louise was quite happy to traverse the path around the pinnacles, rather than have to navigate across them. We continued on the rough faint path, now trudging through thicker snow lying in our way, as it wound around the pinnacles, leading us ever higher to our destination. The path then started to take a down turn through the rocks and we continued following this until I felt we were descending too far...then came the decision to climb away from the track, up through the rocks in a straight line for the summit cairn...Louise happy to follow.

So we dragged ourselves up through snow covered rocks, good scrambling opportunity, trying not to think of the potential for disaster that a slip would inevitably lead to, until we pulled up onto a ledge not far beneath the summit.

We picked up the last of the path here and followed it to the summit cairn...phew!! Once at the cairn we were surprised at how warm it felt, and wind free for the first few minutes, compared to the climb up. Indeed we were able to loiter for longer than I normally would on my own, even enjoying a hot cup of herbal tea for a change (I knew it would be cold so prepared a flask for the occasion). The usual pictures were taken at the cairn...Jelly McBaby was in sombre mood for a change...but posed away anyway...he would later reveal that things were just not right and that he felt a change was needed...cryptic little thing that he is!! We came to an agreement that he would see through the trip to Skye and I would allow him to do what he had to do afterwards...

Having had a high level heart to heart with my vicarious walking partner (if only every relationship were as simple as the one between a walker and his Jelly McBaby) we decided to get off the summit as the wind had returned and the temperature was dropping rapidly!! The return route was to follow the path (without deviation this time) back down through the snow and round the side of the pinnacles...past the rocky outcrops...back around the corrie to the grassy slopes above Fionn Choire. From here the views returned, slowly, as we dropped through the cloud level. Most of the walk back was done in similar conditions as the walk out...except it started to rain...almost bang on four o'clock...AGAIN!!! We returned to the car in a respectable 6.5 hrs...before the drive back to Broadford...for the worst chips I have ever had the misfortune to attempt to eat!!!

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