My twin peaks success...

Having been out for three weeks in a row in April, I then didn't get out at all in May. Partly this was due to work commitments, but also to the small matter of spending ten days in Tenerife soaking up the sun (more on that later). Upon my return to these shores I made it a priority to arrange a trip into the hills, but to where...and when??? I knew that I had further commitments at the weekend just gone in Carnoustie (not quite as exotic as Tenerife but just as much fun), and this coming weekend with my Son (getting to meet his new girlfriend, I better play nice), which narrowed me down to a five day window.

I toyed with the idea of two big days at Mullardoch and Strathfarrer, which would have bagged me eight new Munro's, but following Tenerife I had doubts about my fitness, and ability to cope alone if anything went wrong.

I think I should explain now, before continuing with the story, about Tenerife; I collapsed on my first day there due to a slow heart beat, which caused my blood pressure to crash and me to faint in the street. I spent the first three days of my holiday in hospital getting tests to tell me, eventually, that no-one knew why it had happened, or if it would happen again. Clearly the not knowing if it will re-occur at any point is a concern for the lone hill walker, especially on some remote trek, or narrow ridge. Couple in the fact that it has been five weeks since I set foot on a hill and almost three weeks since I attended the gym and you begin to understand my apprehension at tackling a big day straight away (I was also getting grief off the select few people that knew about Tenerife for wanting to go away on my own).

Having ruled out Mullardoch and Strathfarrer as destinations this time I returned yet again to Achnasheen as my base, staying at the Ledgowan Lodge bunkhouse, and planned three days of walking. I left Aberdeen early on the morning of Tuesday 4th June and drove the almost 150 miles to Achnashellach to tackle Sgurr Choinnich and Sgurr a'Chaorachain from the forestry car park at Craig.

I set off from the car in bright sunshine, though cloudy skies, at around quarter to eleven, crossing the main road and heading towards the railway track.

  

Once safely across the tracks (look both ways remember) the path turns to the left and basically takes you to a crossing point of the Allt a'Chonais. Following this path I crossed a bridge over the river Connon, ignored three right turns, went through a deer fence, turned right at a knoll and after an hour or so of walking ended up at the Allt a'Chonais. From the point of passing the knoll I could see my twin targets ahead of me all the way, which gave me plenty of scope for attempting to work out the best route up and down them.

On the way along the path I passed beneath the flanks of Sgurr nan Ceannaichean to my left. This had a brief flirtation (in the grand scheme of things) as a Munro from 1981 till 2009. Given that the difference has been measured at only 3ft short I will bag her when I do Moruisg in the off chance that she gets another future measurement that promotes her again. This is also true of Beinn a'Chlaidheimh in Fisherfield.

On my right was the Corbett of Sgurr na Feartaig, which I could easily have included in this route as I ended up beneath her flanks at the Bealach Bhearnais later on anyway. As I was unaware of this at the time I kept to the path and ignored the turn off for Feartaig and carried on out along between and beneath these Corbetts.

I detoured off the path when I knew the Allt a'Chonais was to be crossed, signified by the path heading up from the far bank! Prior to this point there had been three other possible crossings of the stream...one on the dodgiest looking wire bridge that I had ever seen until the next one...one bridge that led onto Sgurr na Feartaig...and one bridge that no longer exists across the gorge!!

My eventual crossing of Allt a'Chonais was on stepping stones (not possible in spate) next to an even dodgier looking wire bridge than the first one!

The path, once safely across the stream, meanders up hill around the lower flanks of Sgurr na Feartaig to head for the Bealach Bhearnais. This Bealach sits beneath Sgurr na Feartaig, Sgurr Choinnich and Beinn Tharsuinn (another Corbett) and appears to be a popular place to camp out. I spotted two tents pitched far enough apart to suggest two separate parties on the Bealach (meeting one of the occupants further on up the slopes of Sgurr a'Chaorachain who confirmed this). Once at this Bealach there is a short rise to another Bealach beneath Sgurr Choinnich, with a handily placed drystone dyke to stop for a spot of lunch.

It had taken me just short of three hours to get to this point, I had been so engrossed in the walk that I hadn't even realised I should have been hungry before now. After a short fuel stop I carried on up the steepening flanks of Sgurr Choinninch, which narrowed quite nicely to provide a ridge to traverse above the steep corrie walls to my left. There was even a small cornice of snow left in the corrie for me to snap a shot of prior to topping out on the summit cairn. Sgurr Choinnich summit cairn stands at 999m high and has a ridge leading off east towards Sgurr a'Chaorachain and a shoulder leading off south to Sgurr na Conbhair (a spot height).

There were amazing views from the summit cairn, perched just above the void of Pollan Buidhe, which took in the Mullardoch Munro's (getting a battering from the elements) Lurg Mhor and Bidean a' Choire Sheasgaich (which I thought about doing the following day) the Strathfarrer Munro's (at the end of Loch Monar) the Coulin Munro's of Beinn Liath Mhor, Sgorr Ruadh, Maol Chean-dearg and the gloriously appealing Torridonian monoliths of Liathach, Beinn Eighe and Beinn Alligin.

The weather took a slight dip whilst I was at the cairn and a chill coursed through me, forcing me to pull a long sleeved top on. As I headed off the summit towards the Bealach Coire Choinnich it started to rain. Thankfully the thundery showers that were forecast never materialised above me, instead staying over Mullardoch and Strathfarrer, so the drizzle was just enough to cool me down and wash the midgies off my forehead. I stopped briefly halfway up the slopes of Sgurr a'Chaorachain for a chat with one of the tent owners about plans for the coming days...he was toying with the idea of Lurg Mhor and Bidean a' Choire Sheasgaich also for tomorrow, going across Beinn Tharsuinn. I told him that my route left from Attadale and he suggested that it would not take as long as the recommended 16 hours, but not much less. I think I made up my mind there and then to bin that idea and head to Alligin instead.

I carried on up to the summit cairn of Sgurr a'Chaorachain at 1053m and Jelly McBaby joined me briefly until the rain forced him to seek shelter.

I toyed seriously with the idea of also bagging Maoile Lunndaidh today, but the reality of the situation was it would add at least another 10k onto my day and extend it by anything up to another three to four hours. I was unwilling to push myself too hard after making promises to stay within my comfort zone on this trip. I would content myself with two Munro's today and feel pleased at being able to bag them in under the recommended seven hours. From the summit cairn I headed north along a grassy ridge then turned left down steepening grassy slopes all the way (carefully) to the glen basin before crossing the Allt a'Chonais once more and returning along the path back to Craig and my car. There left only the short drive back to Ledgowan Lodge for an overnight stay in the bunkhouse, far preferable to my usual lengthy drive home. Tomorrow would bring challenges I may

 

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