These blogs are like buses at times...nowt for a few weeks then three are gonna come along all at once!! After taking a week to write up the report from Bruach na Frithe, I have decided to dive headlong into this one for Sgurr na Banachdich...time will tell if it is the right decision, but at the moment it feels like a bit of a chore to me and that's never been what the blog has been about. The whole point in doing this was to extend the feeling of joy the hills give me to others, some of whom are unable to do it physically, some logistically.
Despite a really good walk/scramble yesterday I instinctively knew all was not well inside...didn't know what it was...but just knew I had gotten less from yesterdays Munro than I usually do. It's not a particularly nice feeling when the thing that you rely on as your 'keepsafe technique' fails to have it's desired impact/effect. The worst thing was I had no one to discuss this with, no one to bounce my usually muddled thoughts off...and didn't have the foresight to know that this was where my issues really lay!!! My friend Asima had told me that she had grown tired of hill walking, didn't really see the point anymore, and my fear was that this had struck me down too...was the one thing I convince myself keeps me sane from the stresses of life having a reverse affect on me??? Was I growing out of love with bagging?? All these feelings of negativity were swarming around me and I hated it...Skye should have been the challenge I couldn't wait to accept (and then write about) but something was spoiling this for me...and I was looking in the wrong direction for answers!! Even Jelly McBaby was coming under question, despite my vociferous defence of him recently against some that think he has no place on summits!!
The day started with the weather much the same as yesterday...except colder and windier...and the cloud even lower (if that were possible). The drive from Broadford to Sligachan again...then keep going this time to Glen Brittle...wow, what a road that is (not one for driving in the dark, unless you have intuitive knowledge of the location of every HUGE pothole in the road!!). Then arrival at the Glen Brittle SYHA bothy at the foot of the Cuillin. There were already a number of cars in the car park area, and a large party of older walkers getting ready to depart...shame on us as we dismissed them as ramblers and discussed getting passed them as quickly as possible if they were taking the same access route as us!! As they say "you live and learn"...which was certainly the case today.
We set off at a similar time to yesterday, again hoping that the cloud would clear for us when we arrived on the summit, but realistically knowing that more of the same was in store for us. The path follows the Allt a Choire Ghreadaidh for about a kilometre and a half (give or take) before heading off on a fainter boggy path up the hill side. We had managed to pass the group of older walkers by this stage and thought we would not see them again, unless it was on our way back down...
As we set off up the grassy slopes we could see the group beneath us splinter off into two groups...four following us and the rest heading off along the main path...suddenly reality dawned...those not following us were heading to do Sgurr a' Ghreadaidh and Sgurr a' Mhadaidh...two of the harder Munro's that we had decided to leave until the Caberfeidh Munro Baggers trip in June...which meant that the group now gaining on us were after an easier day...JUST LIKE US!!! Ouch that hurt to say out loud...my second day on Skye and I had chosen an easy option (not that anything in the Cuillins can be described as easy by the way)...not what I had expected at all. Too late to change now though, so onwards and upwards it was. We followed this faint path as it started to run alongside the Allt coir' an each, rising steeply on grassy slopes until we reached the foot of Coir' an Each. By this stage we had stopped to change layers again...the second time already...as the rain had started to drizzle more persistently. The group behind us then became the group in front of us...dogged oldies were impressing the hell out of me!
The scree slopes of Coir' an Each were quite impressive and also quite daunting to attempt on the way up...especially as there was a suitable alternative available. We headed off to the left and started the steep climb up the slopes, initially through grass but becoming rockier and scree filled higher up, of An Diallaid. There was now no sign of the other group ahead of us...and until we gained a little height I did not realise why. They had gone into the main part of the Coir' and were looking at ascending the scree slopes...until they saw us gaining height on An Diallaid. They changed plans and headed up to follow us instead. We were now back in front and had a height advantage...but not for long. I stopped to admire a pair of walkers/scramblers on the opposite ridge, Sgurr nan Gobhar, as they picked their way down through the worst of the crags above the Coir'...breathtaking viewing from our vantage point as a slip could have proven fatal...and we watched them until they were past the down climb and walking upright along the ridge...well done them.
By this time our groups had merged and we carried on the rest of the climb together...it felt rude not to. One of the women was walking her first Munro, the others had been at it for years, with a multitude of experience between them, all four of them were in their late fifties and fit as a butchers dog...I hope I am as lucky in my advancing years...
We continued on to the top of An Diallaid and skirted the crags of Sgurr Thormaid as we advanced up the mist laden slopes.
Once at the top of here the ridge broadens and a bealach is reached beneath the last climb to the rocky summit...then the mist cleared behind us to reveal beautiful views down to Glen Brittle beach at the head of Loch Brittle...unfortunately the way ahead remained cloaked in cloud. Then voices could be heard coming towards us, the strange effects of the low cloud is that they feel almost on top of you before you actually see anyone. Two figures emerged through the mist, a walker and his guide, both looking suitably bedraggled after an early morning start further on up the ridge. They warned us of conditions higher up, apparently there was no chance of doing the In Pinn due to hoar frost on the upside, and the wind at the top was pretty rough (it was quite rough already I must say).
With a cheery goodbye we set off for the final push to the summit...no more than quarter an hour away from us now. If the wind was so strong at the top perhaps we would have a chance of it blowing patches of cloud away for views?? We could but hope for such luck at this stage. The final part of the ascent was through very rough rock and the summit cairn sits atop a very narrow ledge above coire Thormaid. If the cloud were to clear now we would have excellent views of the bulk of the ridge...c'mon!!
Summit pics were taken as per...then the prayers were answered...well slightly answered...
An all too brief fleeting glimpse of Sgurr Dearg, with the In Pinn poking out above it. Then the wind blew back the curtain of mist and it was enveloped once more...DAMN!! As we were preparing to leave the summit I wanted once last pic of me with Jelly McBaby at the cairn...and was almost blown off my feet near the edge of the choire...too close for comfort!! When I turned around, shaking slightly, I noticed one of the other blokes struggling to stand up, he had been blown over!! It really was time to leave now...
As we returned down the path the thought of heading off to the left and attempting Sgurr nan Gobhar flitted through my head...then the reality of the wind buffeting that narrow ledge returned...perhaps another day?? We did deviate our descent to go down the scree slopes of Coir' an Eich though...that was fun in it's own way. Then once again we returned to the bottom of the Coir' and the grassy slopes beckoned our return to the access path far below...with a straight forward return to the car once more...G'Doosh!!! Suddenly it hit me what was wrong with me...and I couldn't explain it to anyone that would understand...even in company I felt so alone with my thoughts and must have been terrible to be around...
I needed redemption...to get away on my own once more...it had been too long since I had walked alone and I knew I had to get away as soon as possible, anywhere, but the forecast was terrible for the next few days and I was due back to work on Monday...then Sunday presented itself like a beacon of sanity awaiting my arrival...
The day started with the weather much the same as yesterday...except colder and windier...and the cloud even lower (if that were possible). The drive from Broadford to Sligachan again...then keep going this time to Glen Brittle...wow, what a road that is (not one for driving in the dark, unless you have intuitive knowledge of the location of every HUGE pothole in the road!!). Then arrival at the Glen Brittle SYHA bothy at the foot of the Cuillin. There were already a number of cars in the car park area, and a large party of older walkers getting ready to depart...shame on us as we dismissed them as ramblers and discussed getting passed them as quickly as possible if they were taking the same access route as us!! As they say "you live and learn"...which was certainly the case today.
We continued on to the top of An Diallaid and skirted the crags of Sgurr Thormaid as we advanced up the mist laden slopes.
As we returned down the path the thought of heading off to the left and attempting Sgurr nan Gobhar flitted through my head...then the reality of the wind buffeting that narrow ledge returned...perhaps another day?? We did deviate our descent to go down the scree slopes of Coir' an Eich though...that was fun in it's own way. Then once again we returned to the bottom of the Coir' and the grassy slopes beckoned our return to the access path far below...with a straight forward return to the car once more...G'Doosh!!! Suddenly it hit me what was wrong with me...and I couldn't explain it to anyone that would understand...even in company I felt so alone with my thoughts and must have been terrible to be around...
I needed redemption...to get away on my own once more...it had been too long since I had walked alone and I knew I had to get away as soon as possible, anywhere, but the forecast was terrible for the next few days and I was due back to work on Monday...then Sunday presented itself like a beacon of sanity awaiting my arrival...
Jelly McBaby, I have to say I was growing increasingly concerned for John and his state of mind and hoped this wouldn't be his downfall on the walk. This was an interesting walk and I had the map to hand as progress was made:) I was glad to read, at the end, that things had become clearer and not because the cloud had dispersed!!!
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