With the uncertain weather conditions, coupled to the recent driving warnings being in place across the country, I decided to spend the night in Killin on Tuesday (20th Dec) with a view to bagging Meall Ghaordaidh on the Wednesday. To my pleasant surprise there were no issues regards the roads in Tayside and I arrived in plenty of time to settle into my accommodation (Killin hotel) and have a hearty three courser prior to relaxing in bed for an early night.
Unfortunately the folk in the room next to me had other ideas and (possibly due to the connecting wall being made of paper I think) they kept me awake till gone one in the morning with loud voices (Germanic by the sound of it)!!!
After a broken sleep, I awoke at seven the following morning. I packed the car, wolfed down a small breakfast (what is it with waitresses not understanding the concept of a small portion of scrambled egg???) and got chatting to a fellow guest about our walking plans for the day. I explained my route to him, and the likely hill conditions due to the milder weather today (thick fog caused by mild air mixing with cold hillsides) and the likely equipment required. He explained that he was planning to do Ben Lawers, but was unsure of how long it was likely to take...he also didn't realise that he had to do Beinn Ghlas first!! This raised a concern for me as to his planning and preparation for such a potentially long trek, but for all I knew he could be super fit and manage it no problem before it got dark. I bade him good luck and farewell and went off to check my room one final time (it saves me ever leaving stuff behind accidentally) and returned to reception to check out. When I arrived there the bloke from breakfast was still there speaking to the receptionist...apparently he didn't know how to get to Ben Lawers from the hotel...he also only had a map downloaded onto his mobile fone...no back up paper map or compass...!!! Once we had shown him the access point for the visitor centre (and warned him about the likelihood of a frozen access road with a very steep gradient) he borrowed the map from reception to take as back up...as the receptionist explained about lack of mobile service on the hills, especially at this time of year with the weather being so bad!! Feeling a tad responsible for him (strange as I had never met him before today) I offered to let him tag along with me, if he preferred?? But he was adamant that Ben Lawers was his only thought for today...personally speaking safety and reality are the two thoughts uppermost in my mind when I venture out in the hills.
I left him to it as I was now wasting my own daylight time...I had no fear whatsoever that he would even make it to the car park, let alone anywhere near the hill, but would keep my fingers crossed that he didn't end up an unwelcome statistic anyway...so off I set along the Glen Lochay road to Duncroisk.
Unfortunately, around halfway along this minor road I was stopped for a period whilst a recovery truck removed an Astra that had suffered an accident the previous day...the road was treacherously slidy (as borne out by the recovery truck driver skating rather majestically around his truck to attach cables to the stricken car and pull it on board). He kindly asked where I was headed and when I told him he suggested I should about turn as the road was no better further on!!! Being the stubborn type I carried on regardless of his advice, though as carefully as I could, given the drops at certain points off the road. Eventually I arrived at my destination...and pleasantly only fifteen minutes later than scheduled.
The weather was as expected at this stage...not a view to be had!!
I toddled along the road, crossed the bridge and arrived at the start point for the walk...a handy sign for those unsure of the location of the path.
I set off along the access path, following the Alt Dhuin Croisg.
Continue on through a couple of farm gates, past some shielings, cross a wall and follow an obvious path until you spot a second set of shielings ahead.
Look for a small cairn on the left of the path, which marks the start of a grass route up through vegetation onto the hillside. All the while along here I was slipping about on a frozen path and the ground was notably rock hard beneath my Manta's.
I tried to get some pictures of the hills around me...the Tarmachan ridge was off to my right obscured lower down by Meall Dhuin Croisg 749m and I could only just make out Meall Ton Eich 815m through the fog to my NNE...
Behind me, across the river lochay, I had hoped to see Meall Glas and Sgiath Chuil (both of which I had climbed earlier this year) but couldn't even make out creag mhor 719m as the fog was lying so low...
I headed up the grassy hillside and soon encountered the line of snow, just below the 400m mark as I crossed a wire fence, and trekked on into it. The main difference between walking in snow and the usual wet boggy slopes is how much slower it feels. Every so often your foot plunges into a deep spot and you sink to your knees, pull out then do it all again...many times as it happens. Thankfully snow is decidedly drier than boggy grass, and cleaner too, so no matter how many times I sank into it up to my knees I never came out soaked or caked in mud. I followed the tufts of grass poking through the snowy duvet, rather than plough through deeper areas which would have really slowed my progress (I think I suffered from a lack of activity at the gym in the past few weeks...I felt slower than usual and my thighs were burning quite early on). Although I was zig-zagging up the snowy slope I maintained a NW heading as I knew this would keep me on course...it was now just a matter of hoping I didn't encounter anything unexpected en route.
The view across towards the Tarmachan Ridge (which I still couldn't quite see beyond meall dhuin croisg) was pretty good, whilst it lasted.
Visibility was decreasing by the second as I continued in a NW direction up through the snow...I could barely make out anything in the white, nothing that I could use to take a bearing towards anyway, so knew I just had to continue in the direction I was headed, with the occasional deviation to avoid deeper looking pockets of snow.
Onwards and upwards until I reached the 870m mark, where I was stopped in my tracks by an obvious rocky area ahead and a deep embankment of snow piling up beneath it.
I took time to assess the risk and decided to adorn my crampons for the next stage...DISASTER...not only were my crampons not in my pack but my ice axe was missing from the back of my pack also!!! In my minds eye I could make out my crampons sitting in the boot of the car ready to get packed last into my rucksack...oh you tit Stalker!! Already this year I have set off from the car forgetting, on one occasion my GPS, on another occasion my walking poles, my flask at least twice, but never anything I would be so reliant upon in such conditions...but at least I knew where they were...where the fluff had my ice axe gone??? Oh bugger!!! Realising that I would now need to risk assess my situation again based on this new development a gnawing feeling of resignation to defeat was spreading through me...I knew turning back was the only sensible option open to me at this stage...but it still hurts to admit it. So near to the summit yet it would have been foolish to push on, especially without proper equipment, and with a feeling of defeatism overwhelming me already and sapping my confidence.
So I turned tail and sulked my way back down the mountain, cursing my own stupidity for leaving the crampons in the car and even worse, losing my ice axe!!
I retraced my steps back down the slopes for approximately 200m...until a yellow and blue object that I instantly recognised came into view...my ice axe lying in the snow. I stowed it safely aboard my pack, ensuring it was secured appropriately this time, and briefly thought about heading back up (technically I still had enough daylight to make it up and back to the car if I really motored on) only to realise that the fog was thicker and descending down the slopes towards me...
Quickly banishing that idea from my mind I set off down the slopes knowing that the correct decision had been made.
When I reached the path, beyond the line of snow, I met another walker setting off up the slopes. I recanted my tale of woe and wished him luck (after checking that he had crampons with him) and set off back to the car and the long journey home...until the next time folks, remember that safety is paramount to staying alive long enough to bag the other 134 Munro's I need.....
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