Two Munro's from Loch Lochy...
What a difference a day makes in the wildly varying Scottish weather. I decided, as my holidays were at the wind-down stage, to take a few days out and savour what has fast become my favourite area of late. I managed to secure accommodation at The Heathers B&B in Glen Gloy for a few days and arrived on Wednesday in rain, apparently it had been raining for a few days and Ian and Sheila were hopeful that my arrival would bring a change for the better (they are such a nice couple). After checking in I headed straight for the barrel of shortbread that awaited me, as I knew it would be, and settled down in my comfortable surroundings for the evening...mmm shortbread and hot chocolate and John Wayne on the laptop...perfect.
When I awoke the next day (Thursday) I was greeted by warm sunshine, clear blue skies and the promise of an excellent days exploration.
The plan today was to find access routes for future walks, of which there are still many to explore in the surrounding countryside around Fort William (without ever having to go near the town itself). I thought I had pretty much exhausted every route down here when I completed the Glen Nevis range, adding to the Loch Laggan, Fersit and Grey Corries routes that I have picked off all year (except Stob Ban in the Grey Corries). But on checking the map I realised that I could return here and access so much more next year, reaching out to Glenfinnan, Ardnamurchan, Kinlochleven and Loch Lochy (the latter of which was my main focus on this excursion).
As the day was so fine, and I had time on my side, I opted to include a short walk along Loch Lochy, taking in the access route to tomorrows Munro walk, and make the most of the fine weather. it was a short ish drive along the edge of the Loch, looking stunningly resplendent in the sunshine, to South Laggan, then a careful drive along to Kilfinnan on a single track road with errant sheep stepping out in front of you every so often along the way. I arrived at Kilfinnan expecting to find grassy verges as the only parking (see walkhighlands website) and was pleasantly surprised to find a proper parking space (for around three cars) off the side of the road.
I walked along the access path and found that it led off to various log cabinesque accommodations along the side of the loch, then branched off to take in the Great Glen Way footpath. I continued along the path for a few kilometers, basking in the sunshine, taking snaps of my surroundings where the excessive lighting would allow, until I approached the start of the route I would take tomorrow, signified by an old walkers boot on top of a rock leading into the trees.
I decided to about turn here as any further would have meant me attempting the Munro's poorly prepared (I hadn't even brought along a bottle of water on such a gentle saunter). There is a wide range of flora and fauna along this route, various fungi growing in the strangest places, dragonflies that are happy to dive bomb you until you are out of their territory, grasshoppers clicking unseen in the undergrowth and a variety of birds singing in the treetops along the way...Once back at the car I returned along the same route and headed to the commando memorial above Spean Bridge. Every time I had been here previously the weather had been dull and views limited as a result.
Today I could see everything this area had to offer, soaring peaks all around, culminating in the splendid view of Aonanch Mor, Carn Mor Dearg and Ben Nevis in a rising triple bill of previous glories achieved this year. The roof of Britain really does dominate everything around here, from every angle, and makes you wonder what it has done to deserve a depressing soulless place such as Fort William at its foot!! I returned to the Heathers and settled down for the evening, Celtic online and a nice tea awaited. The last of my drugs would whisk me off to sleep afterwards and dream of an equally fine day tomorrow...
But this is Scotland and no two days are ever alike...I bet you don't even need me to tell you that the weather had changed completely and I was not greeted by warm sunshine today, rather a depressing tip tap of rain falling on the rooftops, mist lay thick on the hills and the temperature would ensure that my fleece was required yet again!!
A filling breakfast (the only time I ever indulge in cooked breakfast is when I'm away on these trips) set me up for my day as usual.
I set off, as yesterday, along the same access road and paths until I reached the boot on a rock. Now it became a journey into the unknown...One of the effects of my recent sojourn into the world of pharmaceuticals was a fuggy headed feeling in the mornings, almost spaced out as it were, as if on auto-pilot at times. Add a misty mornings walk along a thickly treed path and I can now add paranoia to those other feelings.
As I trudged up the 'coffin road' I could swear I was being followed...not the first time I had had this feeling recently...but this time I could hear no voices or sounds (not even birds) just a feeling I had. The coffin road is so called as this was used by crofters from the remote region to the north to carry their dead to the graveyard at Kilfinnan in times gone by. Knowing this did nothing to ease my feelings of paranoia as I trudged up through the trees, constantly looking over my shoulder at imaginary sounds in the darkness of the trees...(feel free to have me committed at the first opportunity as I CLEARLY require to lie down in a softly padded room for a week or two).
I continued along the Cam Bhealach path as it rose along the Allt Glas Doire, keeping high above the stream, on the north of the valley. I was headed for the high bealach at 570m between the two Munro's. Almost at the top of this rise the rain returned once more, forcing me into waterproofs for the remainder of my climb.
Once at the bealach I struck out on the path up Sron a Choire Garbh, a good path that zig zags up the side of the Munro keeping well clear of the south-east facing crags and cliffs (neither of which I could really see anyway for the mist). Once the path peters out onto grassy slopes a rounded bealach is reached just above a drop into another corrie. Follow the ridge to the left, not to the right (which leads to a small cairn above broken crags), and a short walk from here to the summit cairn at 937m. If the weather is clear there are extensive views into the wilds of Knoydart and across to the next Munro...unfortunately I had no clear views so all there is is a pic of Jelly McBaby at the cairn.
I followed the grassy slopes back down to the path and returned to the bealach, then crossed some peat bogs and started the climb up the other side onto Meall na Teanga. As I followed the path up and around the slopes of Meall Dubh, keeping to the right so as not to climb Meall Dubh unnecessarily, heading through some more peat bogs on route, the path disappears then reappears as it gains height towards the bealach. Follow the path as it rises sharply up the slopes to the north ridge then follow along the edge of the corrie as it leads directly to the summit cairn at 918m. Once on the summit the wind picked up considerably, quite how McBaby was able to stand upright in such a gale is beyond me!! But stand and pose he did, oh how he suffers for the cause, long enough for me to get a pic prior to departure.
I was not for staying on that bleak cold summit for any longer than was necessary and headed back down to the original bealach on the coffin road, suddenly realising that I was making very good time. At the rate of traverse I would be back at the car in almost 2 hours, giving me an overall 5 hour trip (the recommended trip was 6.5 hours)...not bad for an old bloke with inflamed Achilles!! The return leg was just as wet as the outward one, but faster downhill.
It was interesting, to me anyway, to see that the cloud cover was lying at about 600m and that as I returned to the valley below the loch was clear...most people probably hadn't even noticed how bad the weather was higher up as it remained drier lower down. Once back at the 'boot on a rock' it was a gentle return to the car along the access path. As I was nearing the car a flock (is that the correct analogy??) of cyclists swarmed by me...apparently there is a cycle race along the route tomorrow...and there were a number of people organising signs and what not in preparation. As I approached the car I found a camera case lying beside it (someone must have thought it were mine and left it by the car for me to return). I took it back and will advertise it as found in town tomorrow. All in this was a good day in the hills, though clearly if I had gone yesterday it would have been even better view wise, and another two Munro's 'bagged'. The total for the year is now 54 when the initial target was only 41 and plenty more opportunities await before the weather truly turns against me...starting next month in Glen Sheil with Mike when we will be attempting the Brothers Ridge...until then fellow walkers (and followers alike)...take advantage of breaks in the weather as they arise...stay safe on them thar hills.....
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