Two days in Glencoe.......
On the 25th of May 2011 I departed Aberdeen at early o'clock to pick up Derek at Marykirk. We travelled down to Glencoe, where we were booked to stay at the Clachaig Inn, and arrived at our intended destination (after a few stops on the way down) around 12 o'clock.
We started our attempt of Buachaille Etive Beag via the path running up the Alt Lairig Eilde.
A steep ascent takes you to the Mam Buidhe, which is the lowest point on the ridge, follow the obvious path onto the bealach before ascending, this avoids uneccessary effort on a steep scree slope.
At the bealach we turned left to the ridge and headed up towards Stob Coire Rainach, our first munro of the day. On the way up the ridge you get some cracking views across to the 'big Buachaille' on your right and also to Beinn Fhada on your left.
There is a small cairn at the summit 925 mtrs, but not much shelter from the elements, of which there were many today. We headed slightly further along the ridge to a sheltered piece of rocky outcrop to take pictures and allow Derek to have a cigarette.
Unfortunately for him it was at this point he discovered that he had left his lighter back at the car!!
We returned to the ridge, via the cairn, and began back down to the bealach, from where you begin the ascent of Stob Dubh. This is a longer more graceful ridge which exposes you to the wind at all times and offers no shelter from the rain.
The ridge curves to the left and narrows out in places, with excellent views of the sheer drop below to the left. The cairn is found at 958 mtrs but I would recommend walking out further to the next cairn for the finest views into Glen Etive, Ben Starav above Loch Etive and Ben Cruachan beyond. It would be an understatement to say that we got wet on this summit, Derek especially as he didnt have a waterproof with him!!
We returned to the bealach and then descended the Lairig Eilde before reaching the car again. All in we managed this in 3 hrs 35 mins.
We headed off to the Clachaig Inn and received a warm welcome from the friendly staff.
The room was of a good standard and we immediately set about drying our gear over the heaters and towel rails, showered and went for tea. The standard of food was high, as was the service, amid a convivial atmosphere in the spacious lounge. After eating we headed to the walkers bar round the corner and partook of a few cold beverages, a couple of games of pool and a chat about the days highs and lows.
The following day started with some early morning pictures of our surroundings and a hearty breakfast.
Such was the quality and quantity of this breakfast that I didnt eat another thing all day, save for two jelly babies at the summit of Stob Coire Sgreamhach.
We drove along the A82 to a large layby opposite the Aonach Eagach Ridge and surveyed the path ahead, trying desperately to pick out a route through the seemingly impossible ascent of the Coire nan Lochan between Aonach Dubh and Gearr Aonach.
Thankfully once you start along the path it becomes rather apparent all the way to the first scramble.
The clag hanging over Bidean nam Bian never lifted all day and certainly didnt assist us when we 'missed' a part of the path heading up through the three lochans...just didnt head west enough apparently...which left us to pitch up through the steepest gnarliest scramble I have ever done. The saving grace was that due to the weather I couldnt actually see how dangerous it was...only the sound of rocks falling below gave any indication that a fall would prove unfortunate.
All Dereks climbing skills came to the fore and he was able to assist me in getting my lardy arse up through various amounts of scree and rock, all soaked and slippy, to pull up onto the ridge of Stob Coire nan Lochan and find the path waiting to greet us like a long lost friend.
After much back-slapping, hand-shaking and relief, we moved on and ascended to the summit of Stob Coire nan Lochan, picking our way carefully through the pinnacles and outcrops, keeping our height as the path gave way to rocks and listening for the reassuring 'ping' of the GPS which told us we were heading in the right direction. We made our way through the clag to the summit, then descended to a narrow bealach before ascending again to the eventual summit cairn of Bidean nam Bian.
Jelly McBaby was out and on the summit afore you could whisper 'camera', photos were taken and we moved on due to the freezing weather conditions. As we descended to the bealach between Bidean and Stob Coire Sgreamach I stopped for a comfort break, not expecting any interruption, and was surprised to find a female walker appear on the ridge behind me. Apparently she had left an hour prior to us but had been overtaken, unseen in the gloom, when we had mistakenly ascended the corrie. She accompanied us the rest of the way, which seemed rather sensible in the conditions, and revelled in our tales of 'derring do'.
One thing about Derek, he can tell a fabulous tale. We passed along the bealach and pointed out our exit route, an absolutely improbable climb down the steepest scree slope I had seen since Buachaille Etive Mor 4 yrs earlier. Our companion struggled to believe what we were telling her, to the point that she took out her map to check and confirm we were right.
We headed up the path to the summit cairn of Stob Coire Sgreamach where I celebrated my 100th Munro.
Some banana loaf was shared amongst the three of us, a quick refuel, then we headed back to the bealach to find the improbable descent.
A few small slips and slides, accompanied by a few girly yelps it must be admitted, and we lowered each other down a particularly steep loose section of scree before passing a few patches of snow that the rain hadnt removed over the past few days.
We continued heading down into the Alt Coire Gabhail, finding, losing, then finding the path again through grassy slopes, before reaching the lost valley. This is a truly wonderous sight, some of the boulders that have fallen from the slopes on either side are as large as houses. The slopes of Beinn Fhada rise steeply up on your right with a multitude of streams pouring water into the Alt Coire Gabhail.
We descended through the ravine, crossing the water, then emerged into a clear opening just prior to dropping into a wooded area on the edge of the three sisters. I can now say that I have been between three sisters and emerged more than satisfied.
There is a small wooden bridge left to cross before the path heads back to the A82 and the waiting car. It was decided that the three of us should head back to the Clachaig Inn for a celebratory hot chocolate...although I also managed a small Dalwhinnie in honour of my hundreth munro.
After bidding our companion farewell we headed back on our merry way and returned to the road....all the way home...allowing me plenty of time to day dream fondly of the next 183 to come.
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