The Fersit four...day two

I dont know if it was the heat, the excitement of three days bagging or too many jaffa cakes...possibly a combination of everything...but insomnia struck back big style last night. I tried shutting my eyes, unsuccessfully, for hours, even after taking a nytol I had no luck dropping off to sleep. Im not sure how many hours/minutes I managed to sleep but by the time breakfast was served up it didnt feel like enough. Isabel did me proud with another plate full of Scottish goodness, meaning no need for anything later as I wouldn't feel hungry until I got home. That's twice I have stayed at the Mahaar recently and nothing has left me feeling like there won't be a third time. Isabel and Alan are fantastic hosts who can't do enough for their guests, and at only £30 per night for B&B they give terrific value for money. With a full stomach and only a minor dent in my wallet, compared to many other places I could have stayed, I set off on the road to Fersit for the next two summits on my mind.

I parked up further along the road than yesterday, taking in the full bounty of a three house town...but was disappointed to find that they have removed the telephone box (as described in all the route guides I had checked before setting off)...but thankful that all the sheep pens were intact. When you park up there are two possible paths to take...ignore the one on your right and take the one on your left, passing some buildings, crossing a bridge, then a railway track, then follow the track between cottages and pass through the gates (remember to close them again) onto open track leading to a small bridge across the stream.

Head uphill at this point and keep the fenced enclosure to your left as you head up boggy (what a shock) slopes (pathless) and head for the prominant nose of Sron na Garbh-beinne...this is when the route gets really tough (or it could be the result of hardly any sleep and this being my third day) as it rises sharply through grass slopes to reach the rocky top, before rising steeply across rocky ground to discover a path on the top leading all the way to the summit (I had been pre-warned about this yesterday).

The summit cairn of Stob Coire Sgriodain lies at 976m, the cairn is on the very edge of a steep drop off towards Loch Treig so take care in less clear conditions. Jelly McBaby took his usual place on the summit and posed for the pic (he just loves all the attention he is getting).

 Clear views today across to yesterday's two summits and the Grey Corries beyond...hazy views over to Glencoe and a multitude of hills in the far distance. 

Loch Laggan was glimmering in the sunlight and I was impressed by the topography of the surrounding mountains around the glacial trough of Lochan na h-Earba. The route is quite clear at this stage, following a less than obvious path through some pretty rough terrain, undulating rocky prominances, until you reach a wide open bealach of short grass.

Chno Dearg is ahead to the left, with another height to your right (Meall Garbh 976m) falling short of munro status due to the lack of drop and ascent between it and the other two. A stiff short climb up the grassy slopes to reach a slight rocky top then off to your right is the large cairn of Chno Dearg at 1047m. The bonus feature of this Munro is the view across to Creag Meagaidh (in good conditions).

The usual pics were taken at the summit before adourning a second layer to keep the sudden appearance of a chill wind and light rain off. The return route is down steep grass slopes to reach an undulating wide marshy area of peat bogs and expansive puddles...splish splash all the way across here using the far off An Dubh Lochan as your bearing in clear weather, failing that set off on a NNW bearing and take care crossing the bogs...there are plenty of pitfalls for the unwary but no major obstacles or drops to be avoided in bad weather.

Eventually you will drop back down to an access path to Fersit and back to the car. A fantastic day of stunning views, cracking weather and cheery banter (yes I talk to McBaby from time to time...so what!!). My head got a slight tan AGAIN, but more importantly my legs stood up to the rigours of three days (7 Munro's) worth of walking...I always feel an anti-climax when my trips are done, the drive home can be non descript at times...but thankfully I had an idiot in a blue van that CLEARLY didn't realise the white lines in the middle of the road were to keep him on his side and away from oncoming traffic to keep me alert for the rest of the journey.....until next time, happy tramping...

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The Fersit four...day one

After yesterdays inclement weather I was hoping for some better luck today...thankfully I got it.

The start point of the route was a couple of miles down a winding country 'road', parking near An Dubh Lochan near the small settlement of Fersit (think three houses and a telephone box).

The path starts gently rising alongside the Lochan, keeping to the right of it, and climbs to the minor top of Creag Fhinaclach...bringing Loch Treig into view...the downside is that it was completely boggy and soaking due to the amount of rain that fell last night.

Gaiters were worn today, but no waterproofs were required as the rain decided to cut me some slack. Stob Coire Sgriodain and Chno Dearg were in clear view to the left of me, across Loch treig, as I continued to climb. Beyond Creag Fhinaclach and across a boggy plateau till I started to climb an unnamed height above Coire Shomhairle.

This involved a little bit of scrambling and made me wonder what it would be like on the way back down?? Once I had gained this height, around 800m it was a fairly clear path onwards and upwards on a broad shoulder, with cracking views as I gained height of everything around, until I started to climb steeply up to the summit of Stob a Choire Mheadhoin.

The Grey Corries were to my right and Stob Coire Easain loomed large in front of me, the Ring of Steall sat to the back of Easain, Loch Treig was to my left...everywhere you looked there were Munro's I had climbed and wanted to climb. Even Scheihallion was visible in the distance, its iconic cone shape easily spotted from miles away.

I had a quick drink of juice and took some pics on the summit...Jelly McBaby looking as relaxed as ever...then headed down the steep slope towards the bealach between here and Easain.

There is an escape path off at the bealach, for those not wanting to re-climb Mheadhoin again after Easain, but it is very boggy in the lower slopes and quite a lengthy walk back, far better to return on the same route for once.

The climb to Easain is exceptionally steep and rocky underfoot, but it is still only 30 mins between summits. I arrived at the summit cairn completely pooped and was feeling the effects of a leg sapping ascent...but a bite to eat and juice soon allayed the effects.

Jelly McBaby got his pic taken with some pretty impressive backdrops provided by Grey Corries and Ring of Steall. I started back down the slopes, carefully, and halfway down met a young lady coming up. She was holidaying nearby with her family and had left them to climb some Munro's. I regailed her with my stories from yesterday and she told me about her trip up Chno Dearg on Monday...I gained some useful route information from her for tomorrow then bid her good luck and farewell as I carried on my merry way. The re-ascent of Mheadhoin took me another 30 mins, meaning that I had summitted three Munro's (technically speaking) in 3.5 hrs...well ahead of schedule again.

The sun appeared as I started my downhill journey...making me uncomfortably hot but giving me fantastic views again (something I truly miss when the weather closes in..or when im stuck at work..or doing something equally tedious other than walking in the hills). 

For some strange reason the path seemed to disappear more on the return route than going up...but it didnt really matter.

The traverse down the steep slopes I had ascended earlier was also harder on the way down...but quicker (even taking into account the care that I was taking with each step). After another 2 hrs I found myself back at the Lochan and my car still waiting for me...5.5 hrs is not bad and well within the suggested time frame. A good day all round and some valuable information to help me tomorrow (bonus), back at the B&B for quarter past four...a shower and change then off out for fish supper...sitting in the sun eating post Munro fish supper is the best fish supper in the world.....cant wait for day two in Fersit.  

   

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Bloody Scottish summer!!!

I had hoped to find that the weather would have improved, in the two weeks since I was last out this way, but to no avail.

Certainly down at the car park at the nature reserve the sun, though not shining, was threatening an appearance. Unfortunately that all passed without coming to anything as I climbed along the path leading to Aberarder, then hung a right at the smallest cairn on the path to trudge uphill through boggy waist high grass. Thankfully that doesnt last too long, then I struck out across shorter boggy grass to reach the height of Na Cnapanan 623m.

From there its a good hard climb, on a decent path at last, to reach the vast summit plateau of Carn Liath 1006m. I wish there had been a view to speak of, unfortunately the mist had closed in at around 800m and remained like that for the rest of the climb, instead all I got was a brief glimpse of the Loch far below me, then the mist enclosed around me again and I was walking blind for the rest of the day.

I did get a snap of Jelly McBaby on the summit, and a self snap of myself in some rather natty head wear...

The path off the summit plateau is almost non existent...but that matters not a jot as the drop down to Meall an t-Snaim is quite gentle in comparison to some of the hills I have been on lately. The path appears, disappears, then re-appears between here and a strange bealach...almost like a trench in the hill...at Uinneas Min Choire...before heading sharply uphill and becoming more prominant as the ridge thins out between Sron Garbh Choire and Sron Choire a Chriochairean.

The path passes quite close to steep drops on both sides...unfortunately I could see nothing so no pics to prove it. There are a line of rusty fence posts leading to the summit cairn of Stob Poite Coire Ardair 1053m, indeed the cairn is on the path and is the second cairn not the first one you arrive at.

A well defined path brings you downhill to the bealach known as 'the window' and from there the path climbs back up the lost height until it reaches the summit plateau of Creag Meagaidh...which is vast. Skirt away from the rocky cliffs on the left of the path and head across grassy top to the right for almost a kilometre, pass 'mad megs cairn' and follow the path until it concludes at the true cairn on the summit.

I dont know why the other cairn is called that...perhaps I will google it tonight.

Once off the summit retrace your steps back down to 'the window' and start to carefully pick your way along and down the steep rocky path to the Lochan a Choire below.

Once there the return path is of good quality and is around 5k back to the car. The rain that had been threatening all day arrived just as I started my descent...so I got wet after all...but at least had the foresight to bring my winter jacket with me for protection...gotta love Mountain Equipment MRT Kongur jacket xxx

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Tarmachan ridge.....

The promise of a bright sunny day ahead awaited us as i lay slumbering in my bed, alarm set for seven, not expecting Mark through till just after eight. Imagine my surprise when i noticed a text he had sent at six saying he was just leaving, then the shock of a call at five past seven to say he was outside!!! If you make plans then you should stick to them...I hate rushing around, its how you forget things you need to take, though thankfully I had packed the car the night before and was actually confident for once that I had everything I needed for the day ahead. A quick shower and change and we were off into the bright blue skyed morning.....Loch Tay our destination.
We stopped for a (ahem) small breakfast roll at the Horn on the way down.....mmm bacon.....then off we went again.
Arrival at the Lawers visitor centre was a bit of a shock....its no longer there....only the car park remains.....when did this happen.....I was sent no notification on this??

We parked at the next spot further along the road and were quickly joined by more cars.....nothing will be said about Mark's observational skills at this point....but that clearly wasn't a small child!!

The path is quite a clear route to the start of the ridge...only the small cairn leading to the hill path was lacking, so we built it up for others to spot easily. There is a spot height at 924m, bigger than a number of munro's, and the path to reach it follows a winding grassy slope, plentiful views today and I managed 72 pics today...a vast improvement on my last trip.

Once you reach the spot height you drop off again downhill to a small bealach and then begin a rockier steeper climb up a good path to the summit of Meall nan Tarmachan.

Mark was doing really well today, I let him lead the pace and he seemed happy to do so, puffed a bit going uphill but then so did I.

Views across to the Lawers range were fabulous, including the route to Meall Corranaich above the Lochan na Lairige, which all made for a stunning climb as the path became even steeper nearer the top.

We summitted after an hour or so of starting (1 hr 15 mins) and were met by a family sitting at the cairn. They had a little girl with them (5 yr old) doing her first Munro...fabulous achievement, I bet she still reaches fifty Munro's before Mark!! She informed me that she had enjoyed her first Munro and that I needed to put a rock on the cairn..."ah but I have something far better than that to leave on the cairn, just promise me you wont eat him"...as I removed Jelly McBaby from my pack and positioned him on the cairn for the ritual pic.

She was so polite and cute that I had to let her help herself to some of McBaby's friends from the box...but only if she finished her sandwich first. Who says I dont have a soft side???

Mark posed for his pic at the cairn and off we toddled along the ridge...still too full from the earlier bacon roll to stop for lunch. This could have had something to do with the fact that Mark had packed bacon sandwiches that morning in his pack...nothing like a bit of variety eh Mark!!!

The path along the ridge is very clear and easy to follow, obviously taking care not to slip off at any point.

The drops are quite steep at times and a fall would prove rather sore I fear. We continued round to the summit of Meall Garbh, which sticks up quite prominantly and can be picked out quite easily from below.

Around the other side of the summit the path starts to meander downhill, then quite abruptly drops steeply to the path below. Mark negotiated this with dignity and poise......hahahaha yeah right!!!

Sliding down on his ample rear, dirtying his new trousers, he slipped and slid till he got down safely. We managed a laugh as he decided to drop his pole gently to the path below, only to watch it hit a rock and bounce well beyond the path onto the grassy slopes beneath...the poor bloke ahead of us thought we had gotten into difficulty as our cries (of laughter) could be heard echoing around the steep coire....

Once safely down, and with pole retrieved, we watched as another party of walkers attempted the descent in the same awkward manner as we had. Once we were sure that they were safely down we pushed on up the steep slopes to Beinn nan Eachan. Another high summit with splendid views across the mountains to Ben More and Crianlarich hills, on to Tyndrum hills, around to Lawers group and the Glen Lyon hills beyond.

I tried, unsuccessfully, to pick out Scheihallion but it was hidden amongst the jumble of other tops, its unique shape unnoticeable from this angle. We were making good time and you could see the confidence Mark was taking from this, he is definitely happier walking when he knows that there is only one, perhaps two at most, Munro's to climb.

We descended to the bealach and headed on up to the next spot height at 916m, overhanging the Coire Fionn Lairige. The usual route of descent is back to the bealach and down grassy steep slopes, but with Mark's knee problems we decided on a longer route across the next top and traverse down a path, which gave us a longer return route but made Mark happier to try, it also meant he didn't need the knee brace fitted for the traverse down, which was another little confidence boost for him.

At one stage I may have opened up my stride and not noticed that I had left him far behind, until I stopped to get something out of my pack. He eventually appeared around the corner and said he had thought I had forgotten he was with me and left him...as if!! He also put it down to stopping for a quick pee that took longer than intended, but thankfully he appears to possess a true sense of direction so knew which way to head to return to the path below...(that's an in joke which shall remain exactly that). 

Once down the hill we made it to a small reservoir station and measured the return route as being another four kilometers...easily back to the car in an hour and under the five hour recommendation for this route, despite the longer traverse we had taken...all things that pleased Mark no end. 

Halfway along this return path Mark felt the need to answer a call of nature...that's an age thing...and I headed off slowly so as not to hear/see/smell him!! 

We arrived back at the car just before four, and ahead of at least three groups of walkers that had started before us and had not taken the longer path we had. 
Mark had intended to sleep on the way back up the road but was so excited by his day that instead he yapped constantly...its good to see one of your closest friends so obviously pleased to have achieved something that they were starting to doubt their own ability to do...
Until the next trip, hopefully in as good conditions, onwards and upwards.......     

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